Found a shop near Seattle that is building a bracket that mounts 1985 thru 90 Buick Park Avenue fronts on my 66 Valiant. This allows me to keep the small bolt pattern, and the cars rear. I know that this isn't pure Mopar, but I'd like the car to stop well.
Anybody hear of this shop before. Scarebird Classic Disc Brakes, he can be found on E-bay, has an E-bay store. Shows a very good selection of kits for Mopar, and others as well. Might be a good place to share with your Ford and GM friends. After all we should all be able to stop.

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66 Valiant, 225.
84 Van, 225.
71 Maxi-Van, 318
60 Valiant wagon, 225
87 Maxi-Van, 318 4spd

I looked at their setup some time back but decided there were too many variables to suit me. As I recall it required redrilling the rotors among other things. For myself I decided to just get a set of front disks that were at least made for the same family of cars. I picked up the KH 4 piston set up but those are getting harder to find and parts are sometimes a challenge. Before going with Scarebird or some other kludge I would seriously look for a factory setup from a mid 70s or later A-body car. There are multiple articles and posts about how to so that and, for me at least, it would make more sense.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Try doing a search on this forum - Scarebird has come up a couple of times.

I think it's work consideration, although I personally chose the Mopar late-A body disk setup for my '64.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I had two problems with the Scarebird SBP conversion:

1)thickness of disc pushed the OEM wheel centering hole off the hub flat and over the tapered hub area (all vertical load thrown onto the studs)

2) stock OEM 14 x 4.5 wheel hit the caliper

After I notified Scarebird they adjusted their EBAY description to read that OEM 14 x 4.5 wheels would not work.

I corrected the problem by:

a)machining the hub taper smooth & installing an inside tapered bushing with an OD matching the OEM wheel centering hole ID. The wheel holds the tapered bushing on the hub since I flanged the bushing inner edge

b)adding a wheel 1/4 inch spacer to push the wheel out far enough to clear the caliper

c)using NAPA's longest 7/16 wheel studs

Note that the hub flat is about 3/8 and the disc thickness is .285. Most OEM and aftermarket wheels I have inspected have a wheel centering hole with an inside min. radius or chamfer of at least .09. This leaves little to no contact with the hub even if you manage to find a aftermarket wheel that will clear the caliper.

My above fix cost me $220 for those weighing the SBP advantages.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

I looked pretty hard at the Scarebird kits and talked to the maker about them as well. There were a few deal breakers for me. One was wheels, I would need new wheels even with the scarebird kit. Small pattern wheel selection is limited / more expensive. Second, my direction with the car includes heavy duty suspension and the small pattern and smaller lower ball joint bolts were iffy. Third is the fact that the calipers on all of those kits are not supported on the outboard side of the rotor. They are only supported by the bracket behind the rotor and the studs, so when braking they will tend to shift, the pads will wear with a taper and ultimate braking will not be the same. I was looking at a complete suspension rebuild anyway and some of the later 73-76 parts (ball joints) cost less. So I went with a setup from a 76 duster. I can get rotors anywhere and don't have to drill them and new wheels were of the shelf. I spent an extra $95.00 for the matching rear end and whatever new rear brakes cost. It all bolts right on and is very solid with larger bearings and thick 11" rotors. If you have or can round up some small pattern rally wheels and are not going to change much else the Scarebird kit might be a good option for a normal driver. Otherwise it is a very easy sure thing to use the later disk setups if you can find one. It is pretty easy to find 14" factory wheels for the later setup as well that your tires can be swapped to.