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4.44" Stroke
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Author:  ceej [ Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:30 am ]
Post subject:  4.44" Stroke
The crank got a clean bill of health and is ready to go in for welding up etc...

Is there any prep work that needs to be done prior to the crank specialty guy doing his thing? this was a question from my machine shop guy, Ryan...

I have asked them to weld it up enough to use a standard bearing. Are there any issues with this?

Any last minute suggestions?

Ryan is looking at various options for the pistons. The standard bore for the 2.2 was 3.445". Was there a reason for going to the 1mm overbore, or can we go with the standard bore size?
He has been pushing me to a Forged set. Will the additional strength be of value for a street car, or just a money drain?

Awaiting your expert instruction! :D

CJ
Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:45 am ]
Post subject: 
If I were welding/grinding, I might have a BB of SB Chev journal pattern put on there due to the number of rods available. This will of course require you to pick another piston type to use. For economy, a std rod will do you fine.

Should at least have the crank cleaned and crack checked (magnaflux or similar) before welding. Sounds like you've done that.

If your motor will be about 5500 RPM or less redline (should be for a street motor), then cast pistons should be just fine. I turn mine to 5500 and one motor to 6000 and have had no piston issues. Forced induction or nitrous - get forged.

1mm oversize will put you at 3.48" bore, which is fine for a Slant and can help with the valve shrouding issue. You don't need it though. I have had a few 3.43" bore motors easily make over 200 streetable HP with a good head and mild/medium cam. Slantzilla's motors have mostly been 3.445" bore, so that gives you an idea...

Lou
Author:  slantzilla [ Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Mine is 3.465" bore. :shock:

Use the biggest overbore possible. It will unshroud the valves and make the head flow better, especially in a N/A mode. :D
Author:  Doc [ Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:43 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
...Is there any prep work that needs to be done prior to the crank specialty guy doing his thing?
Now is the time to grind-off any forging "seams" and extra weight. The crank will need rebalancing so get it smooth and nice before doing that.

Also look at the sides of each con rod journals (crank "pins")
If the outside edge is short, you may want to weld it up a little taller so there is enough side wall once the journal is off-set ground at 4.44
if the wall(s) are real short you loose oil pressure, it acts like excess con rod side clearance.
DD
Author:  ceej [ Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Gotcha. Heading for the machine shop now.

(With printouts)

Thanks!

:D

CJ
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
What are they charging you for the crank work? Keep in mind that they might have forgoten about the three extra passes that the slant crank needs. V8s have 4 passes, V6s have 3 passes, but straight 6s have 6 passes. I was quoted $450, but when they got the crank, the guy that quoted it realized a straight 6 has 6 rod journals. :shock: If it were my business and my mistake, I would have sucked it up and done it for the $450. They simply told me that I now owe them $850.
The moral to my story is to get your quote in writing. Normaly I'd let them keep the crank, but its a long story. However they will be added to the list of people/companies I will never use again.
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