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| Itake manifold https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21892 |
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| Author: | WILL'S74 [ Thu Feb 15, 2007 5:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Itake manifold |
Will a stock intake work with after market headers. Will there be any problems with the heater under the intake? |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Thu Feb 15, 2007 5:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
all stock Intakes should work with headers - I always test fit First to be sure - There will be NO carb heat - If you have an EGR valve block it off with a solid gasket under th valve. Greg |
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| Author: | ROADRUNNER7169 [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 7:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
you can always get the mopar block off plate part #3671447 it lists for $5.00 |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can also have carb heat with headers by getting Frank Raso's manifold water-heat kit specially designed for the purpose. |
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| Author: | ROADRUNNER7169 [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
this might be a stupid question but do you think one could drill a hole and install a block heater in this unit (like maybe a low wattage freeze plug unit) or do you think this might turn into a car-b-que |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:38 am ] |
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That wouldn't work. For one thing, you need manifold heat when the engine is running and the car is moving, so unless you have a really long extension cord, you're not going to be moving very far. Also, it's the manifold itself that you want heated up. |
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| Author: | AnotherSix [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Block heaters don't get that hot, and you would need a really long extension cord. Actually, other than using water to heat the manifold I have thought about using exhaust heat with headers. My idea is to make a plate for the manifold like the hot water version with two holes, probably 1/4" npt. Weld 1/4" npt bungs onto two header tubes or head pipes at angles, one into the exhaust flow and one away. Connect these all with stainless compression fittings and two 3/8" stainless tubes. Fairly simple and not to expensive if you can make the plate yourself and weld the bungs. 3/8" should be big enough, but you could use whatever you want. It would be easy to restrict the flow as well with inserts or just by squeezing the tubes down if you needed to. Another thought was to use the hot water setup but get the water via the bypass to avoid dealing with the fact that there is a heater valve on our factory AC car. It looks like a 90 degree heater hose to the water pump, a plug in the bypass outlet in the head and an extra water outlet from the head near the heater outlet or a tee at the heater outlet would work, at least on a 225. |
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| Author: | AnotherSix [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok, Dan you beat me to the post about the extension cord. I was not just repeating what you stated. |
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| Author: | oldgoat83 [ Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Anothersix has got me thinking. The idea is to get the intake up to operating temperature quickly, right? It normally gets it heat from conduction from contact with the head, as well as contact with the exhaust manifold. The exhaust is heated both through conduction from the head as well as convection from the expelled gases. You could possibly add some sort of metal work from the headers to the underside of the intake like the heat stove to the air box does. More metal to metal contact would spread the heat more uniformly. But adding more material to heat might make the process moot. I don't think this would be sufficient or close enough to stock to maintain heat requirements. Nor would it necessarily allow such things as a diverter flap as on a standard exhaust manifold. BUT, could you not employ something like a Peltier device to the underside of the intake? It could be engineer with a sensor to shut off at optimal temperature. |
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| Author: | FrankRaso [ Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
While it's good to get the intake manifold up to operating temperature as quickly as possible, it is also important to at least replace the heat lost to the vaporization of gasoline. Remember that that the vaporization of gasoline produces a refrigeration effect in the intake manifold. Without replacing the heat lost to fuel vaporization, the intake manifold will become colder and colder shortly after startup on a car with headers. Heat transfer from the cylinder head takes too long and doesn't put heat where it is needed -- under the carburetor. Although the engine's cooling water is only at ambient temperature first thing in the morning, it will still be much warmer than the air in the intake manifold. The engine (and its cooling water) doesn't have to be fully hot for the intake manifold with water heat to have improved cold driveability. Exhaust heat supplied to the intake manifold from headers will require a thermostatically controlled valve as is done with the factory cast iron exhaust manifold. The beauty of water heat is its simplicity. Even though water provides plenty of heat, there is no way that it can overheat the intake manifold. As with the OEM manifold arrangement, a good carburetor gasket is recommended provide enough insulation to prevent percolation in the carburetor. |
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