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| Swedish Newbie on SL6, Piston question https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21994 |
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| Author: | Swedish Slantsixer [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 4:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | Swedish Newbie on SL6, Piston question |
Hello everyone, i have been following this forum for a time and i have finally registered. I´m from sweden and for a couple of months ago i bought my first american car: 1964 Dodge Dart GT with a 225 and pushbutton trans. It had been sitting for 24!!!! years when I bought it so there´s some things to fix on it. After taking care of the neccessary things to pass the swedish car inspection (every 2:nd year for cars older than 30yrs) I have used it as my daily drive. Last week I got tired of the oil consumption and lifted the engine from the car. This is the result of the "autopsy": Worn cam and lifters, three lobes almost round. I could almost remove the timing chain from the gears. very sharp and big "edges" in the cylinders, (don´t know the english word for it) All valve guides and valves were just thrash, and so on. It´s strange that the engine didn´t run worse than it did. Now to my big question, what kind of technique do you guys use to change pistons, it seems like the "wrist pin" is stuck in the conrod? (is that the right word?) pistonbolt, translated directly from swedish, well anyway do you have to heat the conrod to be able to remove the wristpin, and what kind of tool do you use to make sure you get it centered in the rod? I hope you understand my Swenglish and can help me. I have only worked with volvo B20 engines before //Tommy |
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| Author: | Mister Twister [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 5:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The wrist pin is a pressed in design and generally needs to be removed and replaced by a machine shop. Don't heat it to remove it. You run the risk of egg shaping your circle for the wrist pin and possibly bending the connecting rod. Hope this helps. Don |
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| Author: | Swedish Slantsixer [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 5:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ok, then I'll let the shop that will bore the block change the pistons. I don´t have a shop manual for this engine, and if someone know all the tightening specs, for the head etc, I would appreciate this |
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| Author: | dakight [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 6:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There are several sources for Mopar Factory Service Manuals on CD as well as in print. The CD version might be easier and cheaper to get to Sweden then you can print out pages as you need them. I believe http://www.1aautoparts.com has manuals on CD and there are numerous other sources as well. I see original manuals on Ebay frequently at prices from about $25.00 US and up. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 7:55 am ] |
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Hej, Tommy. Me, I don't like the CD-ROM manuals. They are unlicenced and so quality is unreliable. Some of them may be OK scans...some of them are almost unreadable. It's sort of a gamble what you will get. I prefer to have the actual, real, factory-produced manual; my favourite source is listed in this thread. The word you are looking for (for the metal at the top of the cylinders) is "ridge". The tool used to shave down this metal is called in English a "ridge reamer". You may want to take the opportunity while you are rebuilding the engine to install a better-than-standard camshaft. My favourite one for use on the street in an otherwise-stock engine is the MP244, now no longer available from Chrysler but it can be had via Doctor Dodge (on this board). |
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| Author: | Swedish Slantsixer [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 9:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
that would probably be a good idea, but it´s hard to get anything than standard cams here in sweden, but there´s a guy who´s importing stuff from summitracing I´ll just have to save some money:) Some people over here thinks i´m crazy because i´m rebuilding a slant6, everyone just tells me to put in a 318  Why do like everyone else, hehe. |
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| Author: | Ron Parker [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 2:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I see that about everywhere we race you could have a 340 or 360 in the car. But when I run 12.50 in the 1/4 and not the fastest Slant there People come to the Slant Six Pits and shake there head say amazing.Enuff said. Thanks Ron Parker Bagels On Juice Im On Boost |
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| Author: | dakight [ Sat Feb 24, 2007 2:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote:
Me, I don't like the CD-ROM manuals. They are unlicenced and so quality is unreliable. Some of them may be OK scans...some of them are almost unreadable. It's sort of a gamble what you will get. I prefer to have the actual, real, factory-produced manual; my favourite source is listed in this thread.
Everyone has their preference and that's fair enough. I do want to point out, however, that some CD ROM manuals are offically licensed by Chrysler and are indexed to allow easy access to the various sections. About the quality of the scans I can't say. I will probably end up buying one eventually and when I do I'll report on the quality of the product.
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