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 Post subject: Creeping crud
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:08 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:54 pm
Posts: 347
Car Model:
Here is a link to look at the pictures, http://www.putfile.com/icaneat50eggs What caused this carbon build up on the intakes? The exhaust valves look good. Also how can I remove it without dinging up the valve job? It does not look normal to me.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:15 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
"Coked" oil.
Were the valve stem seals hard and / or broken?
I also see this on engines that never get reved-up, no matter how good the valve guides, stems and seals are.
(you will find a spun bearing before you find any of this valve crud on engines I drive! :twisted: :wink: )
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:22 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:54 pm
Posts: 347
Car Model:
I was wondering about the valve seals, they were kind of hard. Should they be more like rubber? The engine has low miles on the rebuild. The #1 and 6 cylinder were kind of sooty looking. Yeah, it doesnt get revved much, But if the "Doc" so prescribes it..... Now how do I safely remove it?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 7:37 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:13 pm
Posts: 233
Car Model:
hi, i have always used a bench grinder with a heavy duty "rope style" wire wheel on one side. clean your valves outside and have eye protection and a breather mask so you don't inhale carbon dust. i have never hurt a valve and they look brand new when done. ron


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:29 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
The deposits are hard and brittle, strike the crud to chip it off and then bead blast or wire brush to get the last bits.

Yes, valve stem seals should be flexable. Note that the umbrella type seals all look the same (black poly material) but the material used is not the same, cheap seals tend to dry-out and get hard quickly.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:56 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:50 pm
Posts: 2354
Location: Pertneer Nashville TN
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Is it possible to use other types of seals? The heads I used to have on my 360 had BB Chevy ones on it. Those were recommended by the machinist at Music City Rod Shop (RIP) :( I wanted something that would hold up for many miles and take the heat of a 6000lb truck 360 living in a little insulated box.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's

93 D350 Cummins THD Maxfuel 35mpg parts to hit 400hp+ Suncoast Cat2 A518, converter DDP Stage III injectors 62/64 HX35, 3 piece manifold, 4" Diamond Eye, Gear Venders OD. Stage I street/tow PDD head on order.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:37 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
With deposits that large I would want to go ahead and do a valve job. If you can't or won't do that, at least lap them in with some good valve lapping compound so that you get a good seal.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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