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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 8:59 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2006 1:45 pm
Posts: 186
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Car Model:
Would one of you please provide me with a part numbr for the correct ballast resistor for my 225 auto 69 Valiant (points ignition)? If you can, it would be most helpful if it was an Echlin or Standard part. I purchased a replacement from my usual helpful parts person, and I've been advised that if I used it, I would be very sorry shortly. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 10:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24518
Location: North America
Car Model:
H'mm, you must've not gotten (or not liked) my e-mail answer to your similar question. What exactly is the nature of this sorrow of this sorrow you've been advised will befall you if you use the resistor you've bought?

A Standard RU-4 will work. So will an ACDelco C1101. So will various others. What brand and number did you buy?

What matters is the resistance, not the appearance. It doesn't matter if the new resistor looks like this
Image

or like this
Image

NAPA offer several different ballast resistors for early Chrysler applications. There's ICR11 (1.35Ω), ICR13 (1.82Ω) and ICR23 (1.20Ω). I'm thousands of miles away from my desk and FSMs at the moment, so I haven't got an FSM in front of me, but you can quickly check the resistance specification in the ignition specification section of your own FSM, then swap the one you have for the one you need if necessary.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:28 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
Car Model:
Don't forget that the resistance cold and the resistance hot can be quite different - there are nice specs in the 1965 FSM for current draw. For most Mopar point systems, the wire inside the ballast is supposed to heat up and reach about 2.5ohms at idle, and drop to 0.5ohms cold.

The electronic ign ballasts stay about 1 ohm cold or hot.

I tested a number of ballasts, and found they agree w/ spec pretty closely.


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