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 Post subject: Carb Problem need help
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:03 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 26
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model:
1963 Dart 270, slant 6, 3 spd w/holley 1920 carb. Here's the problem: The car starts fine and runs good, until the choke opens all the way, then it starves out for fuel and dies. If I close the choke butterfly a sixteenth of an inch, it runs fine again, let go, it starves out. I'm thinknig that possibly a part came off the accelerator rod from the gas pedal. I need apicture of how the accellerator rod fits through the rubber bushing in the carb. It looks like there should be some kind of keeper at the end of the rod to keep it from moving in the bushing. My service manual doesn't show a good picture of how it's set up.

It happened very suddenly, one day it worked fine, the next day, it didn't, so if anyone can download a picture of the set-up I'd sure appreciate it. I have set the idle screw up as high as it will go, but it doesn't fix the problem.

Thanks in advance!

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1963 4dr Dart 270 225 six w/3speed column shift


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24512
Location: North America
Car Model:
Will it keep running with the choke open if you hold the throttle partway open (or your foot on the accelerator)? If so, perhaps the curb idle crackscrew is missing and the throttle is closing too far once the fast idle cam swings out of contact with the fast idle crackscrew.

If that's not the cause, then it sounds like your carb needs a good takedown, cleaning, and rebuild. There is probably dirt clogging at least one critical passage. Is this an original carburetor, a parts store "remanufactured" unit, or an unknown? If you're not sure, what's the carb ID number stamped on the top surface of the fuel bowl area, near the right front corner of the carb, just inboard of where the fuel inlet fitting is? Should look something like R3243SA or somesuch.

There's no keeper needed in the location you describe, just the bushing, but it should really be the correct bushing. This symptom you're describing won't result from improper hookup at that location, though.

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 Post subject: Carb problem
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:25 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 26
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model:
The vehicle will keep running if I keep my foot on the gas. I turned the curb idle screw in all the way, and it will now stay running, but kinda rough.

Don't know the history on the carb, but it looks old. The numbers stamped on it are like 4Z43248, with 1677 stamped below it. (didn't have my glasses on, so the numbers are only close) Got a carb kit on the way.

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1963 4dr Dart 270 225 six w/3speed column shift


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24512
Location: North America
Car Model:
Mmm...those aren't the right numbers to look at. The one you're after has four digits. It might have an "R" before it, and it might have additional letters after it, but there will be four digits. Remove the air cleaner, clean the top surface of the carburetor casting just inboard of the fuel inlet fitting, and tell us what you see.

In the meantime, it sounds like there's trash in the idle circuit. You may be able to effect a temporary fix with a can of spray carburetor cleaner. My preference is Berryman's B12 Chemtool in the red, white, and blue can. Attach the spray straw, remove the engine's air cleaner, remove the carb's idle mixture adjustment screw (over on the passenger side), look down into the carb throat, and note the two holes facing skyward on the forward wall of the carb throat. One of them is about the size of the carb cleaner spray straw, and the other is a tiny pinhole. With the engine off, push the straw firmly against the larger of these two holes and give a good 2-second blast of carb cleaner. Then repeat this with the smaller pinhole. Then go over to the hole where the idle mixture screw goes, and give a good blast into that hole. Reinstall the idle mixture screw, seat it lightly (don't jam on it!), back it out 2 full turns, then turn it in about 1/4 turn. Start the engine -- you will probably have to hold your foot on the gas to get it to start -- and rev it until it smooths out. Now go back under the hood, engine still running, and use one hand to hold the throttle partway open so the engine runs fast, and the other hand to repeat the carb cleaner blowout of the two holes in the carb throat. This will often either clear out whatever's clogging the passages, or at least push it out of the way and confirm that's what's going on.

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 Post subject: carb help
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 7:41 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:32 pm
Posts: 26
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model:
Put my glasses on and took a good look, the numbers are 4712, then just below and to one side are the numbers 1167. I tried the chemtool, it helped to smooth things out, but the basic problem of starving out when the choke opens remains. One thing I did notice was when I put the air cleaner back on the revs increased. Rebuld kit should be here soon.

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1963 4dr Dart 270 225 six w/3speed column shift


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