Slant Six Forum :: No start condition

If you need to modify the terminals on a mini starter for clearance with whatever manifold set you're running, the details are in this thread.

Well, it turns out it wasn't the starter causing the problem, i forget the name of the part, (its that thing that keeps you from starting in drive or reverse), for some reason it wouldnt allow me to start in park either, but it fired right up in neutral.

I'm definitely going to search the nearby savage yards for one of those mini starters it sounds like they are just better starters in general.

thanks

The nuetral safety switch?? That should have prevented any current draw when turning the key, no complete circuit to the relay.

Maybe some accessories were energized by the ignition switch

Quote:

The nuetral safety switch?? That should have prevented any current draw when turning the key, no complete circuit to the relay.

I was thinking the same thing. If it was a bad NSS, then where did the big power draw come from?

Quote:

Maybe some accessories were energized by the ignition switch

Actually, the opposite occurs. With the key in the "Start" position, ancillary loads such as the wipers, blower motor, radio, etc. are disconnected.

I wonder if maybe just those ancillary loads turning off with the key in the "Start" position was misinterpreted as a power draw.

Author:	Flyboy1700 [ Tue May 01, 2007 12:20 pm ]
Post subject:	No start condition
Slight problem this morning! my '75 duster wouldnt start. Battery is good, reading 12.5 volts, all lights, radio, fuel gauge, exc. work when key is turned to 'on'. When i try to start it however, i get a major power drop, but the starter does nothing, no click or ticking, nothing. It is my daily driver, and i have not been having any problems starting it lately. does this sound like a 'typical' starter problem, or could it be something else? Thanks in advance, Greg

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Tue May 01, 2007 12:35 pm ]
Post subject:
Probably a dead starter, but could also be a bad battery cable or connection. Probably not a bad starter relay given that you get a major power drop when turning the key to "Start".

Author:	Slant6Ram [ Tue May 01, 2007 1:11 pm ]
Post subject:	Cable connections
Before I chuck the starter in the trash, I'd check the cable connections to the battery as Dan stated. Otherwise, a starter should be pretty easy to remove and many auto parts stores can test them for free.

Author:	Flyboy1700 [ Tue May 01, 2007 1:36 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks guys, i'll recheck all the cables just to be sure. I didnt even think about having the starter tested, i'll see if the nearby autozone or napa can do it.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Tue May 01, 2007 1:41 pm ]
Post subject:
Usually Autozone or NAPA can indeed test your starter, but be advised the "remanufactured" starter they're going to want to sell you is gonna be a piece of junk. It'll get you by for awhile, but if you're after long-term reliability, (and a starter that doesn't set your teeth on edge with its noise), then "reman" isn't the way to have fun.

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Author:	RDJ [ Tue May 01, 2007 3:13 pm ]
Post subject:
You may even want to consider a "mini" starter. I got one out of a Dakota for $20 at a Pic-N-Pull. They last a long time, it has more torque with less voltage drain. My engine is higher than normal compression, and it barely takes a turn of the key to kick over. Go to a junkyard and pull a starter from any 92-01? (not quite sure of the year range, make sure the starter has a nose) truck, dakota, or van with a magnum V6 or V8. One thing, you may miss the old "whiny" Mopar start.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Tue May 01, 2007 3:39 pm ]
Post subject:
Yup, the mini starters work very well and are quite durable. When they fail, repairing them is usually only a matter of replacing the solenoid contacts. That repair is described in detail with part numbers here. They draw less current, spin the engine faster, weigh less...but the "Highland Park Hummingbird" sound will no longer issue from your car when you're cranking it. The compatible starters come from '89-'02 Dodge RWD/4WD trucks (full size + Dakota) and vans (full size, not mini) plus '89 Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker Fifth Avenue cars, all with 3.9 V6, 5.2 (318) V8, or 5.9 (360) V8. Beware the "new" units available on eBay and through many parts stores; most of them are Chinese copycats, not the genuine article. Try for one that's still got the Chrysler/Denso data sticker on it, so you know you're getting a real one. If you need to modify the terminals on a mini starter for clearance with whatever manifold set you're running, the details are in this thread.

Author:	Flyboy1700 [ Tue May 01, 2007 4:57 pm ]
Post subject:
Well, it turns out it wasn't the starter causing the problem, i forget the name of the part, (its that thing that keeps you from starting in drive or reverse), for some reason it wouldnt allow me to start in park either, but it fired right up in neutral. I'm definitely going to search the nearby savage yards for one of those mini starters it sounds like they are just better starters in general. thanks

Author:	Davey [ Tue May 01, 2007 5:20 pm ]
Post subject:
I presently work at NAPA and did work at Carquest for 5 years. Reman starters are indeed junk, and NAPA remans are higher in price generally than Carquest. To be fair, I did see more returns of Carquest starters than I presently see of NAPA. You get what you pay for I guess, even when it's for crappy reman starters. If you don't find a mini, and need to get one from a parts place, I'd recommend a new one (wherever you buy it) if you can afford to pop for it. Davey

Author:	emsvitil [ Wed May 02, 2007 12:04 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: If you need to modify the terminals on a mini starter for clearance with whatever manifold set you're running, the details are in this thread. Thank Dan, Just what I need to rebuild my toyota starter........ BTW, if the mini starters are like my toyota truck starter, the only things that seem to wear out are the solenoid contacts and the brushes since they have ball-bearings......

Author:	icaneat50eggs [ Wed May 02, 2007 12:51 am ]
Post subject:
I have a 69 d100, will the mini starter work on that? The starter is on the bottom drivers side of the bell housing.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Wed May 02, 2007 7:11 am ]
Post subject:
The mini starter will work if your present starter is a gear-reduction item that looks like this: The mini starter will not work if your present starter is a direct-drive item that looks like this:

Author:	dart63 [ Wed May 02, 2007 8:03 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Well, it turns out it wasn't the starter causing the problem, i forget the name of the part, (its that thing that keeps you from starting in drive or reverse), for some reason it wouldnt allow me to start in park either, but it fired right up in neutral. I'm definitely going to search the nearby savage yards for one of those mini starters it sounds like they are just better starters in general. thanks The nuetral safety switch?? That should have prevented any current draw when turning the key, no complete circuit to the relay.....hmmmm, interesting. Maybe some accessories were energized by the ignition switch Glad you found it anyway.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Wed May 02, 2007 8:18 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: The nuetral safety switch?? That should have prevented any current draw when turning the key, no complete circuit to the relay. I was thinking the same thing. If it was a bad NSS, then where did the big power draw come from? Quote: Maybe some accessories were energized by the ignition switch Actually, the opposite occurs. With the key in the "Start" position, ancillary loads such as the wipers, blower motor, radio, etc. are disconnected. I wonder if maybe just those ancillary loads turning off with the key in the "Start" position was misinterpreted as a power draw.

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Author:	dart63 [ Wed May 02, 2007 8:31 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: The nuetral safety switch?? That should have prevented any current draw when turning the key, no complete circuit to the relay. I was thinking the same thing. If it was a bad NSS, then where did the big power draw come from? Quote: Maybe some accessories were energized by the ignition switch Actually, the opposite occurs. With the key in the "Start" position, ancillary loads such as the wipers, blower motor, radio, etc. are disconnected. I wonder if maybe just those ancillary loads turning off with the key in the "Start" position was misinterpreted as a power draw. Sounds like a solid theory, especially if there was no"Helper" in the cockpit making sure the key was turned the whole way to start without springing back into Acc mode.