The Valiant is running like a top. In fact she's never run better since the valve job and "hot" adjustment. Thanks for the tutorial Doc. (Say, did you know tin foil makes a great malleable barrier/sump for all that free-flinging oil?)

When I was admiring my handiwork I noticed that my machinist replaced the short exhaust valve stem seals with long ones like the intakes. Should I have any long-term concerns over this, or is this acceptable? This guy is old-school and he's ALWAYS right.

-Todd C


cole020@yahoo.com

Great idea on the Alm. Foil oil deflector(s)

As for the long stem seals on the exhaust valves, I would say it's OK IF all the rocker arms are oiling well out of their tips.

Let's keep our fingers crossed that this "old guy" set the ex. guide clearances a bit looser. (If this were an issue it would have "stuck" a valve by now) Again great job doing this adjustment yourself.

For those who want a quick review, I pulled forward and attached the adjustment procedure:
DD

Well... one step at a time, here is the SL6 Hot Valve adjustment process:

...Now that we can tell the "Solids" (adjustable rockers)from the Hydraulics and seeing most SL6 engines are the "adjustable" type (solid lifters) how should you adjust these?? Here are some tips:

The engine must be hot.

Once valve cover is off, I check the torque on the head bolts, if they don't move by 80 ft.lbs, go to the next, follow the "center-outward" sequence. Also check to see if all the rocker arms are oiling out the center and tip holes. If not, now is the time to change them.

I do my adjustment with the engine running, so turn the idle down as low as possible and put some cardboard under the car. You can also make some aluminium foil "deflectors".(if you want your floor to stay clean!)

I start with the intakes, stock cams adjust at .010, watch for the TWO INTAKES side by side in the center of the row (Cylinders 3&4) use the manifolds to guide you.

Come back around for the exhaust valves, they should be plenty hot by now,(remember, the engine is running and you are "feeling" the clearance between the "hits", if unsure, stop the engine for a moment and recheck to help establish your "feel"

The exhaust is set at .020 but shoot for looser to start. (.021 - .022) Find a setting where the idle is smooth but the lifters are mostly quite, yes "mostly" quite, they should make a small bit of ticking noise when correct. When you have things set right, each cylinder should "miss" slightly when you insert the "feeler gauge", this "hangs" the valve open, causing the minor miss.

If you want to try to "sneek-into" a minor bit of performance increase, try setting the intake valves a bit tighter, .008 instead of the .010
If the engine starts running rougher at idle, Go Back To .010, if the idle stays smooth,....how about @ .007? This puts a small bit more duration on the intake valve event, this also works in "consept" with the exhaust but there is way more "risk" of a "choppy idle" and burned exhaust valves, so .020, may-be .019 (HOT) is about as tight as I would go. Bottomline, these lash settings have some "lee-way", a little tighter or looser is OK, as long as a smooth idle is maintained.

That's it, Button it up and go for a drive.
DD

On Sunday I adjusted my valves using the DD hot method. Now the engine idles better and no longer hesitates upon lead foot acceleration. I previously thought that the hesitation was caused by my carburetor settings.

Moral of the story: adjust those valves!

pwd22@drexel.edu