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| New (for me) and will not start https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23284 |
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| Author: | blkspruce [ Mon May 21, 2007 7:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | New (for me) and will not start |
Hello all. I am new to this forum and slant sixes as well. I have just purchased a 1975 Dodge D100 pickup with a slant six. The engine turns over, but will not start. The lady drove it one week ago for about 40 miles and she got in it to sell and now....no go. With my limited knowledge, I tried a few things and so did her brother. Replaced the fuel pump, checked the fuel lines, cleaned out the carb and nothing. Can I please be directed to some troubleshooting information? Thank you very much in advance. |
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| Author: | VDART [ Mon May 21, 2007 7:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | t-shooting |
need some more specific symptoms--- does the engine have spark?,, fuel?--- many can help so give us a run-down of what has been tried --& go from there--- |
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| Author: | blkspruce [ Mon May 21, 2007 9:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The truck is still not in my possession. I did not check fuel but she stated that they put fuel in. It turns over beautifully but will not even attempt to idle. It sounds new. I really just do not know where to begin. I will need to tow it if I cannot start it. Please give me a list of options. Is there something I can do to the carb to let fuel in? |
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| Author: | slantasaurus [ Mon May 21, 2007 10:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'd check the ballist first, the little white porcelin thing on the firewall. And in the future, always carry a spare. |
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| Author: | blkspruce [ Tue May 22, 2007 6:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I will start there and update. Thank you. |
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| Author: | rock [ Tue May 22, 2007 7:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | try this |
Glad to see another truck lover! They all need air, fire, fuel. Just adding fuel to the tank, and even changing the fuel lines and pump doesn't mean fuel got to the cylinder. Try pouring a shotglass volume into your carb throat, then try to start it. Choke it, too. If no go, then look to the fire, i.e. the resistor or fire at the plug. rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | dakight [ Tue May 22, 2007 7:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The timing chain comes to mind as a possibility. It wouldn't be the first one to jump a tooth or 2 when shut off. I would certainly check the simple things first but keep that one in mind. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue May 22, 2007 8:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I'd check the ballist first, the little white porcelin thing on the firewall. And in the future, always carry a spare.
When the ballast resistor fails, the operational symptom is that the engine cranks...fires...and won't keep running once the key is released from "start" to "run".An engine that cranks and cranks but will not fire is not suffering from a bad ballast resistor. The list of potential causes for a no-start is lengthy, but the others posting here are right: If the engine has the right amount of air, the right amount of fuel, a modicum of compression, and a spark at the right time, it'll start. If one or more of those factors isn't in place, it won't. Timing chain? Sure, could be that. Could be a broken distributor drive pinion (pop the cap and see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked). Could be a carburetor problem, a fuel pump problem, contaminated fuel, a bad ignition module, a bad ignition switch, a bad distributor pickup coil...but before you go on a goose chase, check for the basics: Air, fuel, spark. |
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| Author: | blkspruce [ Thu May 24, 2007 11:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Update |
I got my truck home and changed the Ballast resistor and cracked it putting it in, I will learn. Put the old one back and added some fuel to the carburettor and it started/ revved twice and died. I repeated same steps three times with similar results. I will get another new resistor tomorrow and hopefully will not break it (always carry a spare, so wisely stated). What else could be the problem assuming this does not correct it? |
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| Author: | dakight [ Fri May 25, 2007 4:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sounds like it's fuel related. You'll want to change the filter anyway unless you know for certain that it's recently new. Examine the fuel lines from the tank forward for leaks, especially the rubber hoses. A cracked hose or line will suck air and not allow the pump to deliver adequate fuel. Also check the fuel pump for adequate pressure and volume. Yo can disconnect the line form the carburetor put it into a container and watch the fuel while someone turns the engine over; watch how much fuel is pumped. Be really careful about this and have a fire extiguisher handy. |
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| Author: | MOPARZWALKER [ Fri May 25, 2007 7:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Had a similar problem last week. Was a stuck float. The accelelator pump gasket had also dried up and would not pump fuel. |
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| Author: | blkspruce [ Fri May 25, 2007 10:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Checked lines and we have fuel |
Ok, I replaced the fuel filter and hoses, the Ballast and took the Battery from my 97 Ram. The engine turned over and ran for a little while, had to feather the gas but it took many tries. I saw fuel shooting into the carb. Now, it seems the starter is kicking for a while, then it just spins and I let off the key and it wines down and needs to stop before I try again. Whew.... Is that a bad starter motor and do I need to replace it?because it will not turn all the way over again. |
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| Author: | dakight [ Fri May 25, 2007 10:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sounds like a bad starter drive. You can replace the drive clutch but perhaps a better solution would be to get a "mini" starter from a bone yard. The starter from a late model Dodge truck, 3.9 V6 or 5.2, 5.9 V8 should do the trick. Whatever you do, avoid "remanufactured" parts store junk. |
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| Author: | blkspruce [ Fri May 25, 2007 10:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks. If I were to purchase a new one, what would you reccomend? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri May 25, 2007 10:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
1988 was the first year for the mini starter, on both M-bodies (Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker Fifth Avenue) and RWD trucks & vans with 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 litre engines. The mini starters work very well and are quite durable. When they fail, repairing them is usually only a matter of replacing the solenoid contacts. That repair is described in detail with part numbers here. They draw less current, spin the engine faster, weigh less...but the "Highland Park Hummingbird" sound will no longer issue from your car when you're cranking it. The compatible starters come from '89-'02 Dodge RWD/4WD trucks (full size + Dakota) and vans (full size, not mini) plus '89 Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker Fifth Avenue cars, all with 3.9 V6, 5.2 (318) V8, or 5.9 (360) V8. Later units than that have no nosecone and will usually die an early death if you use them on early applications (no support/alignment for the drive pinion, extreme sideload on starter bearings). Beware the "new" units available on eBay and through many parts stores; most of them are Chinese copycats, not the genuine article. New junk is still junk. Try for one that's still got the Chrysler/Denso data sticker on it, so you know you're getting a real one. If you need to modify the terminals on a mini starter for clearance with your particular setup, there are various different options described and pictured here. |
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