hey guys, i have been looking through old posts, and trying to figure this out, but thought i would double check a few things before i buy anything, i have a 67 dart with the motor from a 74, its stock except super six and 2 1/4 pipe, ive been running the 1515 filter, but read about the 51515 wix tall filter, will this work with the 74 pump? if not what do i need to make it work? its burning a little oil, but not awful, its got just your store brand 10-30 iirc, what about rotella t? in researching old posts, i want the sae rating 'sl', not 'sm' right? its got 140k-ish on the enginem any suggestions guys? thanks!

I use the NAPA 1515 which is a tall filter and by all accounts I've read, apparently its the same filter made by WIX -not surprizing due to the similar product number.

i think the 1515 is the medium size filter, anyone know about this or if i can use the tallest one? thanks

Wix 51515 = napa 1515 = medium sized filter, 131mm tall

Wix 51773 = napa 1773 = tall filter = 177mm tall

They are all the same thread so they will fit any pump. Only combo that won't work I think is if you use the short filter (neither one of the #'s above, not sure what # it is) with a standpipe.

If you have 140k on the clock and your burning oil I don't think it matters what you put in it brand or raiting wise. If anything I would try something thicker.

thanks!

Purolator 30001 is their tall one. My '73 engine has a short stand pipe so a short filter can be used, but I still use a tall one. I just use Texaco High Milage oil, 10W-40.

I would say 10-30 is a little lite for your engine at this point
but that depends on how many hours, not miles it has
(course hours can be anyones guess, but it if
was mainly driven
around town- hours can reflect a lot more use then
the miles will).
I use 20-50 on my engines that want to use too much oil,
they leak less and/or blow-by less (got a couple +200Ks).
I would try the 10-40 frist, if use is too high still- then 20-50....

Course if that don't help, time find anouther engine or rebuild
time.... unless it's just seals

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62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

I run 10W40 year round EXCEPT in the summer if I know Im gonna be doing a bunch of towing/hauling/hard miles in hot temps, I'll occasionally go with 20-W-50. The SG-SH-SJ-etc grades weren't even thought of when these engines were designed, they MIGHT have been on SB or SC. these are quality grades/additive packages. As far as using the store brand,
I can remember back in the days of the old Sears brand Spectrum. Had some friends that called it Rectum instead.
A guy I knew that had a 77 Charger SE (Dodge's Cordoba) with a lean burn 400, swore by the stuff, but always bitched about oil consumption on that 400 from a very low mileage point. After several years of having that car and the miles started to pile on, he took it on a trip from Chicago South Suburbs to Disney In Florida. Sears was out of his weight of "rectum" oil, so he had to buy Valvoline as he was readying the car for the trip. He went from a qt burned in like 700 miles, to Disney and back on the Valvoline and didnt burn any the whole round trip! Now if you know what youre getting , in a store brand oil, fine, such as Car Quest and Napa's house brands are the same Valvoline as in their name brand bottles. But if you don't know what youre getting, stay away from house brands.

thanks guys, so i should be able to run the tall filter on my 74 engine, and start with 10-40 and then go to 20-50, though im only really driving it in the summer, i may just start with the 20-50...thanks again

20W50 is way overkill. If you need that much viscosity to control leaks and consumption you really need to overhaul or replace your engine.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

This is not a "one size fits all" hobby. Each has to call it his own way. However, if you put 20-50 in a slant with an aging plastic gear timing gear set,, it might break in the winter with 20-50. The gears get brittle with age, and 20-50 puts extra stress on them. However, I got 30,00 extra miles out of my last slant while I was building the current one, and cooking up the 5spd conversion, just by running high quality 20-50 in it. It was a "spare" engine pulled out of the Dart I converted to a 360.

I was very happy to get the extra miles out of it. At that time, this '69 Dart was my daily driver, and I could not afford to take it off the street for long. When I pulled the "spare" slant out of the current slant car, and replaced it, it was still running great, got 22-25 MPG, (with a 4 spd OD) never missed a beat, and didn;t burn oil as long as I kept high quality 20-50 in it. That engine did have a metal timing chain gear. If I hadn't been building a replacement engine, I might have let it go until it failed in some way, and who knows how long that would have been.
Sam

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this car stays in the garage during the winter, so, i guess ill give the 10-40 a shot once i get paid, and then if that doesnt fix it ill run 20-50 until it dies...i want this summer and maybe part of next out of this one, then i will probably have to park it for a bit while i work on finding a job/house after school and start on my student loans , then ill do this thing up right with help from this site...the body is rust free, so ive got a good starting point, thanks for the input everyone...

Yeah, the 20-50 may be overkill, it may not be right for all, and as far as short or tall filter, I run the tallest filter I can for the extra filtering area. A tall filter has more surface area, meaning that its just that much less likely to clog and have the bypass open on the oil pump, sending unfiltered oil back thru. I change my oil often enuf that clogging should never be a problem, but as (not saying you should necessarily use a Fram filter, I DON'T wanna open that can of worms again; just seems that fram part numbers are more "known" to car guys) and it costs the same amount to buy a PH 8A as a PH 43, if you have the space to do so, it don't make sense to use the smaller one. For normal daily driver duty, most slants will be more than happy on a decent name brand 10 W 40 year round.