Hello everyone, second kick at the can with a naturally aspirated 225 build. First candidate was too far gone, so added a little more to the empire of dirt to gain a better starting position. Just a question regarding identification, pictures included below, uncertain of the year range this five freeze plug block was produced. I took a look at the identification chart and playing with blocks page and could not ascertain its year range based on what markings are present on the block. Present on the driver (waterpump) side of the block is "330 4" then to the right of this "1 74 83", VIN plate located behind the alternator on the passenger side of the block is wiped clean, nothing visible there.

Block photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/

Additionally I have successfully identified the NP A833 I plan to mate to this block; problem being I do not have the associated bell housing to do so. Were the bellhousings used to mate RG 225's to A833's the same across the board regardless of car/truck application? This 833 Looks to be a aluminum based variant meant for truck use.

Transmission case:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/

Thanks in advance for any knowledge that can be imparted here.

Welcome to the site and good luck with your projects!

I am not good with part numbers, but if you take some zoomed out pics of the block and BH from a few angles I can get you pretty close. Others will probably chime in based on your part numbers.

Where are you located? What kind of engine do you want to build? Stock, higher HP NA, boosted, EFI or induction?? Also, do you have a budget in mind?

Slant on,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Looks like You've got a late cast crank block, if You pull the rocker cover it's likely they don't have adjuster screws, if so it would be a hydraulic cammed engine. There should be a pad on the side of the block with stampings, not just the deck surface by the alt., have fun!

Jim K6

ditto on cast crank block
not sure on hydraulic lifters

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Hyper_pak

Morning,

Thanks for the warm welcome! I recognize some names; glad to see the community is still chugging away. Popped off the valve cover and this does look to be a hydraulic lifter block; additionally, looking at the gusset behind the water pump housing, with a few mm of deviation, it seems to be consistent in thickness from the outboard side of the water pump housing to the point where it connects to the block which lends to the cast crank identification according to playing with blocks. Would all this in aggregate push this block to be newer than '75?

Lifter layout, markings, and water pump gusset:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/

As for wides of the block and the identification markings I could find:
Rear of block (BH) freezeplug: https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
Driver side of block: https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
Driver side ident stamp plate: https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
Pass side of block: https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
Oil pump plate face: https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/

One last unrelated question, going to need to put a new distributor into this engine. Just the threaded hole for the front crank pulley available to bar the engine over to TDC once the trans is mounted. What thread size is this? / would barring the engine over using this threaded insert start pulling the press fit pulley off?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/

As for the ultimate fate of this engine; nothing too crazy just aiming to create a relative period drive-train, maybe with some quality of life upgrades like throttle body injection EFI should the carb route take too much tinkering as the weather shifts to extreme cold and vice versa.

Thanks for the info and pics. That is an 81-up engine based on the hydraulic valvetrain and head/block appearance. Should be a lightwt cast crank and block - great building stock.

I assume you mean the big threaded hole along the axis of the crank. That is 3/4" fine thread. Some engines did not have a bolt. Yours looks like it had one and someone removed it. You will want to engage/thread-in at least 3/4" of thread length. A bolt about 2" long should do it, but measure first. You'll need some big thick washers too, or stack up some grade 8 washers from the hardware store to have at least 1/4" washer thickness. You can turn the engine with that and will hurt nothing. You'll want to torque it to at least 100 ft-lbs and spec is probably something like 150 ft-lbs.

Sounds like a sensible build to me. It looks like people have had good luck with Holley TBI system with carter BBD carb bolt pattern, which will bolt to a Slant 6 2bbl intake. Generally I don't like the Holley stuff, but a couple of people have said that one works OK. The one bad thing I heard is the fuel pump with that system can go bad. You can also use an Offy 4bbl with 2bbl adapter plate. FITECH apparently not good, but I may be out of date.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Perfect thank you. So I guess by extension my next question would be for the model years '81 <-> '87 did Chrysler offer anything other than the NP 833 when mated to the /6 225?

They had 3 spds, I believe. However, if you have the BH from that 81-87 engine, it will be aluminum and it will have multiple bolt patterns that include one for the 833. I have a few of those BHs that I have used over the years. If you take a pick of the front face, I can 100% verify.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ah, sorry should have prefaced. To my understanding these engines were only ever offered with A727's, A727's w/OD, and NP833's?

With that said here is a photo of the rear of the 225 in the above photos, and the front face of the NP833 I intend to mate to it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/204105057 ... ed-public/

Serial of the NP833 is "C-13546 B" which comes back as a aluminum cased truck trans of production dates between the late 70's to '86. Which would make this the 4 speed variant with 0.71:1 for its final OD gear ratio?

That said I do not have a BH for this; I was looking at this unit here as a potential fit for the above setup?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/376680622147

That BH will absolutely work. Good price too with the clutch linkage stuff.

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks again for all your help; solves all of the above. Going to source a starter and begin assembling the starter circuit and cooling system for running it on the stand.