I'm having somebody install the bearings but I'm wondering about the degreeing of the cam. I read up on the process but am wondering the degree of difficulty of this procedure. How much does the degreeing tool cost. I'll be installing the Mopar 244 degree cam. Is there any other required parts I might need, I noticed Mopar sells a bushing and some other accesories. I already bought a key for the crank. Do I need anything else for the cam? Ah for the most worrysome thing...When I was removing the lifters I accidentally gouged the wall... I am wondering what I need to do to fix this problem. I honed it a little bit and it seemed to help. But is there a way to actually fix the wall which the lifter is housed in?

How big of a "gouge" are we talking about?? Seeing that the SL6 lifter bore does not "see" pressurized oil, it can take a pretty large "imperfection" and still function OK. The key is to be sure there is no raised material that would interfer with the lifter's motion.

As for fixing a badly damaged lifter bore, you take the block to a good machinest and "bush it", with a bronze insert(s).
DD

Degreeing the cam isn't too hard, but if you've never done it before, it's nice to have someone experienced walk you through it personally so you get it right on. I just bought a degree wheel at a local speed shop for $19.50 for a 9" wheel. The only problem I ran into was a friend's wheel had too small of a hole to accomodate that massive crank bolt the slant has (if it even came equipped with one). The one I bought luckily was wide enough I had to "bush" the bolt with a piece of conduit to get it to stay tight.

Doc may have a better recommendation about this, but I remember an initial "daily driver" A-body build up that Dan Stern wrote about some years back:

Super six setup (cast Iron)
Stiffer torsion bars (v-8)
MP "243" cam with the MP double roller chain and
advanced 4 degrees with the MP offset bushing kit.
Clean up the head and ports.

I was going to set my duster up this way until recently when I could get ahold of the 243 cam from my local dealership, so I had to pick another cam , a week later they called and said we can get your cam.... (after I already bought an erzatz cam).

good luck,

-DusterIdiot

res0aus2@verizon.net

So where does on get this "Erzatz" brand cam, anyhow? They must be a new company?

Mike


msimpson@millenicom.com

You're evil, it was a comp cam. But since they aren't really popular for the 225 crowd I didn't want to mention it (you know how chad gets...)

-D.Idiot


res0aus2@verizon.net

Comp has most likely sold more cams to s/anters than anyone else has. Chad will just have to deal with it!

Mike


msimpson@millenicom.com

and slanters have most likely RESOLD more comp cams than anyone else has! (once upon a time i too bought a comp cam) by the time the power comes on, you loose!
i found a rather interesting grind this morning from reed cams, i am now perplexed on that one or the isky .505"/254*@.050 109LC .028/.028lash
the reed specs that caught my attention are:.510"lift/280* (248*@.050) 108*LC .018/.020 lash a little more lift, a little less duration, less rattle! the .028/.028 has got to be obnoxious! .017/.018 i run now is bad enough for daily use. i could stomach the 18/20 but 28/28?!?
is pushin it!

beardliz@msn.com