so i was on my way home from work tonight and i meet another car on this big s curve, so i hit the brights to off with my foot, and ive got no lights! kind of scary, for me and the other guy i bet so i real quick hit it again and ive got brights, and ive got parking lights, but no happy medium, they worked the first 1/3 of the way home, no pops or anything that i noticed...its both of them, so it wouldnt be the bulbs would it? i put new ones on not that far back, looking at it tomorrow am, but checking to see if anyone has had this issue, thanks!

It could be the bulbs (i have seen it happen), but not likely. Check the dimmer swich, Could be a bad switch or the connector at the switch.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

It is not unusual for dimmers switches to go bad from corrosion; sometimes filling it w/ WD40 helps.

Oof. I do not like this idea of filling the switch with WD40! WD40 is not a contact cleaner or enhancer, and it is flammable. I have seen contact-type switches catch fire (with a loud POP!) when filled with flammables such as WD40 and then used, because they create sparks at the contacts.

The dimmer (beam selector) kickswitch is probably the problem, though it could be nothing more complicated than the plug working its way partly off the switch, or it could be a fault in the low beam feed wire. Check to see that the socket is firmly pushed onto the kickswitch, and that it is not melted, burnt, or otherwise damaged. If it's hanging partway off the switch, push it back on and try the lights. If no go, remove the socket from the kickswitch, unbend a big paperclip, and use it to connect the socket's centre terminal to one of the other two terminals. Making sure the paperclip wire doesn't touch any ground anywhere, turn on the headlights and see if they work. Then move the paperclip so that it connects the centre terminal to the other of the two non-centre terminals, and try the lights again. If they work with the paperclip in both positions, you need a new kickswitch. They are still easily and inexpensively available. If they work in one position but not the other, something's the matter with the low beam feed wire between the kickswitch and the front of the car.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

i messed with the switch just pushing on it and it worked then it went out again and i was able to mess with it with my foot and make it work again, so maybe tomorrow ill get that corner of the carpet up and try to clean it, make sure the wires are tight etc...is it grounded there? ive got one in the 73, are they the same? thanks guys

Same switch in the '73, no ground at the switch itself.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan is aboslutely correct in that WD40 is somewhat flammable; I should have added that I drain the WD40 out after cleaning and testing. I've seen it catch fire on distributor caps, but it wasn't much of a problem - a weak blue flame.

I've had pretty good luck bring old corroded switches back to life with a good soaking in WD40. While it is not specifically formulated for the purpose, it doesn't attack most plastics the way the more common chlorinated solvents do. The ones I've tried can leave a layer of temporarially dissolved plastic on the contacts.

I got the trick from a guy who was repairing switches in electronics used in nuclear physics applications, and he got it from the company that built the stuff, Ortec.

Of course, if you can go buy a decent new switch for a few bucks, that's the way to go.

Eee!

The WD-40 is and NOT a contact maintainer or cleaner at ALL. Also terrible lube.

Replace the switch. And coat the pins & plug with silicone dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

Cheers, Wizard