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Solid vs Hydraulic cam
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24020
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Author:  polara pat [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 8:34 am ]
Post subject:  Solid vs Hydraulic cam

So I'm doing a low buck re-ring on a late model /6 for my v-100 wagon and my machinist dashed my plans to re use my old cam. Here's the part you guys will hate. I have a couple cores lying around and thought I might use one of those cams (keeping the lifters in order of coarse) but they are early vintage and I'm pretty sure they are solid lifters. Is this just stupid and I should just bite the bullet and buy a new bump stick or what? Keep in mind this is a stock motor that sees quite a few miles.

Author:  rock [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:30 am ]
Post subject:  HI Polara, what are you asking?

Hi Polara,

Can't tell whatcha askin'. Are you asking if you should get a new cam? Or are you asking if you can swap hydraulic lifter cam for a solid lifter cam and use the solid lifters? Or are you asking if you can use hydraulic lifters on a solid cam? or....

rock
'64d100

Author:  polara pat [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:43 am ]
Post subject: 

Sorry for any confusion. I'm wondering what the slant six community thinks about using a second hand cam. I'm pretty sure that the solid to hydraulic valve train is interchangeable. I don't mean to seem cheap but it's low buck and I didn't budget for a $200.00 cam and lifters. Question two would be as the post says, what are the pros and cons of solid vs Hydraulic.

Author:  65deuce [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:41 am ]
Post subject: 

I think you should be able to find lifters at any parts store or engine supply house for $40.00, and the same folks can give you a new factory style cam for 75.00. Save yourself the headache and do a new one. Don't even consider using a cam for which you have no history.
As far as solid vs. Hyd.
I think you have to use whichever the block was originally equiped with as the oiling circuit and rear cam bearing are different..I' pretty sure

Author:  Joshie225 [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 1:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

The hydraulic valve train is not adjustable so you can't use it with a solid lifter cam. If I were in your shoes I would have my original cam reground and if the expensive /6 juice lifters can't be had new for a reasonable price (check eBay) then have the lifters resurfaced. If you want to use a solid cam then have it reground, the lifters resurfaced and swap the pushrods and rocker assembly. Of course I live close to Oregon cam grinding and a stock cam regrind is only about $40. A performance grind (anything other than stock actually) is $70.

The pros for the hyd cam is less maintenance. The cons are expensive lifters and lower performance than the mechanical cams (stock for stock). I usually went 30k miles between valve adjustments on my stockers so it's not a big maintenance item.

Author:  polara pat [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 2:42 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for the honest advice, I think I should buck up and get a new one just for piece of mind. Any cheap sources besides e-bay for slant parts?

Author:  Joshie225 [ Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

Well, eBay was just a suggestion for the lifters as they are over $10 each new. On that alone I'd probably switch to mechanical valve gear if I had it around and maybe even if I had to go scrounge some from a wrecking yard. Mechanical lifters are about $4 each.

I can't really say as to good parts sources on your side of the border.

Author:  dakight [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 5:51 am ]
Post subject: 

I have a brand new, still in the box, stock style Melling solid lifter cam. I'd be happy to sell it for a fair price. I believe it is the later type 244 cam. Also, check the thread for the group buy cams from Erson, as I recall, mine was like $138 including shipping.

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