charlie_s was investigating this, but I'm not sure what his answer was. Charlie???
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| engine oil for cam break in https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24115 |
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| Author: | old-vc [ Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | engine oil for cam break in |
I read all the horor stories of cams and engines being destroyed because of incorrect break in proceedures.Also I have read that oil companies don't put the same additives that were designed to protect cam lobes into oils these days because of EPA rules and the fact that most new cars have roller cams.So now to my questions.After setting the lash most of the cam break in lube would be worn off the cam and new lifters and certainly by the time the engine finally fires.What oil is best to install in a new motor ie new pistons bearings and cam and give cam protection and also allow the rings to bed in. Looking forward to some answers Alan |
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| Author: | NewLancerMan [ Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:21 pm ] |
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charlie_s was investigating this, but I'm not sure what his answer was. Charlie???
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| Author: | AnotherSix [ Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just a conventional 30wt and a couple of bottles of GM Engine Oil supplement and it will be fine. I prefer Valvoline. You can use the EOS with every change, about a half a bottle should be good. If you are thinking about using synthetic, a new engine should have about 5000 miles on conventional oil first. |
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| Author: | Todd360 [ Wed Jul 18, 2007 9:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
A recent article in Hot Rod addressed this same issue. The article stated that Shell Rotella T 15w-40 (made primarily for diesel engines) still had the additives needed for camshaft/lifter break in for rebuilt engines. Personally-I use Rotella T in everything I own-from my John Deere, '66 Dart, etc. My 96 Concorde which we purchased new has had Rotella in it since I first got it home-it now has 211,000 + miles on it-still runs great and uses absolutely no oil. Todd |
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| Author: | old-vc [ Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:46 pm ] |
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Thanks for the prompt replies,although this brings more questions.Todd360 does the use of diesel oil with its extra detergent have any ill effects on your engine?Another six ,is the GM product marketed by any other name.I haven,t seen this product in any of the usual motor accessory stores. Thanks Alan |
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| Author: | Todd360 [ Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:24 pm ] |
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Hi Alan, My personal experience is that I know of no ill effects from using the diesel grade oil. I have used Rotella T in everything I own for over twenty years and have not had any problems. Here is a link to the Hot Rod article discussing cam/lifter break in: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... index.html Good Luck Todd |
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| Author: | NewLancerMan [ Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:52 am ] |
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I have been using Rotella T in my gas turbo-powered engines (VW) for atleast 10 years, and several of the techs I talked to use that oil as well to prevent sludging (vs. 0-40 M1 synthetic that the 1.8Ts were spec'd to take in 2005 due to sludging with dino oil). Thanks for the hotrod article, I knew I had seen that someplace. I have some in my garage for the cam break in when I put it in my new motor build |
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| Author: | Mister Twister [ Thu Jul 19, 2007 10:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
We also use rotella-t in our cars,trucks,bikes,lawn mower, cathis Duster has 178,000 miles on the slant uses no oil between changes. Noticed lower idle pressure but has the same off idle 50lbs @ 190 degrees. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jul 19, 2007 1:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Kendal 20-50 |
When I had my engine rebuilt last winter the builder said he would not guarantee his work if I didn't use Kendal 20-50 during engine break-in. So I have about 15,000 on it now using Kendal. I wonder how much zinc and phos. are in it? |
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| Author: | 6shotvanner [ Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:36 pm ] |
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I'm with the others(most) the shell 15/40 is what I use. Used it in my kenworth/detroit and comp cams recomend it for their cam breakin(I have the 260h in my slant).I figure if its good enuf for breakin its good enuf for everyday. Shell is also available in 30wt for the diesel oil. Side bar,my wifes F***(4 letter word) takes sewing machine oil,5-20wt. Ok I'm old so I askes my long time friend(F*** mech,shop foreman) cann't I use real oil? No says he some new motors cann't oil topend very well with thicker oil,got to use the salad oil maybe olive oil. Local trucking company uses 15/40 in the trucks figured its ok for shop trucks,wrong,they had a few rebuilds on their new F***'s including bosses Lincoln  I think a lesson in oil wt and car/truck brand can be had from this 
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| Author: | heckshemi [ Thu Jul 19, 2007 8:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The new diesel oils (CJ-4) have reduced zinc levels to meet 2007 standards. Look for the old CI-4 API rating. There may still be some on the shelves, I found some at O'reiley's. |
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| Author: | Mag00 [ Thu Jul 19, 2007 8:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | EOS and manufacturers reccomendations |
About the only place I know you can get EOS is at the dealer... but i have heard nasty roumors the the stuff has been reformulated and the stuff you get at least in CA is not the same anybody know if this is correct? GM has for years stippulated EOS for ALL dealer installed engine replacements with flat tappets.. since the advent of factory hydro rollers in the mid 80,the break in and wear characteristics are on a slightly different plane.. the additives that help flat tappet engines break in and survive are non compatible with catalytic converters and a being phased out ...the roller motor a fine without it so the oil companies are drasticcaly reducing the content in motor oils... diesels are on track to have their specs altered ... Ask any long distance trucker about the new regs... you'll get an earfull!!! |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Fri Jul 20, 2007 6:18 am ] |
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Quote: charlie_s was investigating this, but I'm not sure what his answer was. Charlie???
Not me. I had asked at Erson cams, what they recommended, but never recieved a reply.What I use when rebuilding an engine, with a new cam and lifters. Federal Mogul/Sealded Power assembly lube #55-400 on the main and rod bearings. I soak the head of the piston in 10-30 oil to make sure the pin is lubed. Same with the timing chain. The cam journals get coated with the assy lube, and the lifter bores get a lite wipe of the assy lube. The cam lobes and base of the lifter get coated with the lube supplied by the cam manufacturer. Rocker shaft and pushrod ends get a little assembly lube alsoThe oil pump gets some vasoline in it. I do not pack it full, just enough to seal it, so it will pick up the oil quickly. Before starting the engine, I install a good oil filter and 10-30 oil with 16 oz of the GM "engine oil suppliment). One thing I do, is 'prelube the engine befor starting. I have a small tank with a hose that I commect to the oil pump at the pressure port. Put a couple of quarts of oil in the tank, and add about 30 psi air pressure, to fill the oil passages. |
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| Author: | old-vc [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the replies.It is great to get so much information and experience from the forum.I have tried to hunt down both the Rotella t and the GM EOS .The Rotella is easy to get but as yet I haven't found one GM dealership that knows of the EOS. Thanks for your help Alan |
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| Author: | 65 dartman [ Sun Jul 22, 2007 4:41 pm ] |
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Quote: The Rotella is easy to get but as yet I haven't found one GM dealership that knows of the EOS.
Went to my local Chevy dealer and bought the last 7 bottles he had on the shelf (just in case the rumors I've heard about it being disc'd are true)
Thanks for your help Alan |
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