Hello everyone,

Newbie here, first post. My name is Greg, I'm in Brooklyn, NY. I currently have a 65 Valiant 2 door post that I'm looking to do an auto-to-mannual trans swap with. I see there are many similar threads on this forum, but I have not found the exact answers I'm looking for. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to read all this and reply.

As the subject says, I'm interested in putting an 833 OD into this car. Currently, I have the transmission itself, a later (70's) OD bellhosuing, an OD hurst shifter (with linkage), a clutch pedal set up from a 64-65 A-body and a 65-65 A-body floor hump with the round shifter hole.

Can anyone inform me as to what I'm going to need in terms of linkage? Fork, z-bar, return spring, b.h. fork mount, clutch rod, etc. The two items I'm most unclear about are the fork (length) and z bar for this particular setup. I know on early As' there was a ball stud bracket that mounts to the inner fender, which I would need to get.

And now for the 180 - has anyone tried a hydraulic setup up? I found one here: http://www.chucksclassiccars.com I'm not trying to sell this guy's stuff, but it appears like it would solve all the linkage problems, however still may not solve my fork length issue. In looking around for the linkage pieces, it appears like it actually might be cheaper and easier solution. This one is around half the price of a similar kit from Keisler, though it is completely different in just about every respect. The kits from Chucks retain the overcenter spring, so I guess you get a normal clutch pedal feel. One issue I can see would be where to put the clutch master cylinder. I plan to upgrade to disk brakes (Mopar Action style) and use the aluminum M.C. Seems like I might have to drill a hole somewhere so the clutch pedal can actuate the master cylinder.

In terms of clutches - a knowledgeable source recommended I use the McLeod 10.95" Borg + Beck style, which appears to be a regular street-type clutch. Looks good to me. My question is: will that clutch fit in that bell housing? As far as other upgrades, I intend on rebuilding the 225 with a Clifford intake/header combo and a Holley 390. I also have an 8 3/4 rear for the car, with plans for 3.55 gears.

As far as the crank - would a '65 crank have a pilot bushing? I see McLeod offers a steel, 130 tooth flywheel for that application. Would everything need to be balanced? Would there be any clearance issues with that part?

Also, I'm not in love with the OD shifter. I'd like to put a Competition plus in for look and feel. Anyone try this? I can't see why it couldn't be done. It's a bench seat car.

As far as the actual swap - the idea I have in my head is to put the car up on a lift and drop the 904/driveshaft out, attach the bell to the trans and mount it behind the engine. This should provide the correct shifter location so I can cut the necessary hole in the floor and weld in the floor hump. All the drive-line parts will be replaced during the swap. I imagine I will have to get a custom driveshaft made because of both the trans and rear. Incidentally, the tranny mount and u-joints in there now are completely shot. Whenever I put the car in gear, it sounds like someone hitting a pot with a spoon.

As an aside to all this, I'm actually in tech school right now, learning about manual transmissions.

Looking forward to hearing what you all think!

Greg Casden

Greg,

I tried many kinds of hydraulic linkages. What I settled on works very well and is easy to fix. I tried several hydro throwout bearings and just didn't get them to where I trusted them. SO, I nnected a Wilwood pull slave to an old one compartment mopar master cylinder connected to clutch pedal rod. Mount pull slave to frame on passenger side and connect via threaded rod to the standard fork. The bells have ball studs inside that the forks mount on. There are 2 kinds of fork, either type fork works. VERY simple to adust initially.... lay underneath, work clutch through range of motion with a lever or clamp to see when clutch releases by turning your output shaft by hand. measure the distance the fork has pulled back from start. Adjust your pull slave to that distance and you have instant hydro clutch with NO hydro internal bearing. Mine has the standard depression before clutch disengages and feels very much like a non hydro clutch. I used the 10 inch clutch, it fits in the 833 bell. As to custom drive shaft, measure where your output shaft is now and get your 833 shaft there, three dimensionally. I did tthis with a plywood cutout. Push in your output yoke all the way and pull it out 3/4 inch. Measure from center of u joint curve to center of rear yoke u joint curve. Take you drive shaft to a driveline sshop (usually a truck place) and they can do it in one day for about $125. Cleaned, welded, painted and balanced. I use a Hurst comp. plus shifter, love it but had to bend my shift stem to clear seat, and did this in a shop press. I have a 17 inch handle so knob is pretty high and hit dash.

Rock,

I appreciate the reply, sounds like you got it working pretty well. However, there was one thing I'm not sure I understand.

The pull slave, you mounted it on the passenger side and connected it to the fork by a threaded rod?

The hyd. system I'm looking at mounts the slave to two mounting holes of the trans. cover with a fabricated bracket. This links the slave right to the fork on the driver's side, almost like regular clutch linkage, 'cept it's a hydraulic slave cylinder.

Greg

only the mopar 9.25" and 10" fits in the stock 1975-1980 A/F body A-833OD bellhousing...and the 10" clutch is pushing the limits of space in the bell, the 11" is meant for the larger truck truck bellhousing (the stock bell for the car mounts the starter on the driver's side and 'high', the truck 11" HD monster mounts the starter 'low' like a V-8).
Most kits if made for the mopar will just bolt 'with some drilling' right into the spot where the clutch pedal linkage would pass through the firewall (should be a rubber/plastic plug down there)...



Welcome to the board, go to the articles section for some more info about the A-833 ("4 speeds").

Good luck, I run a much heavier car with 3.55's nd the A-833 and it's a good streetable combo (mileage/'go' power).

-D.Idiot

Uhh,

I moved mine FROM passenger side to Driver side...it is indeed on driver side. I made a little skid plate under it from 1/4 inch plate so it wouldn't get smacked and really ruin my day. Ya never know what will roll up under you on the road...

DI gave me lots of primo advice that helped me along. He is Mr. 833 in my opinion. I would suggest if you have the tranny out, put in a new rear output shaft seal and a new input housing seal. Todally cheap insurance.I did have to fabricate a cross member but it is pretty easy to do. you can get the correct tranny mount from NAPA (chinese) or from ebay (Moparts P+S) the real thing. Or a used one off ebay. Easier to lay under and see how to make it than to try to tell you, and you may approach it differently than I did. WHen you put in the 10 inch clutch get Allen Head screws for clutch cover to flywheel. As Rob is intimating, a 10 inch clutch is close and you will sweat bullets on occasion trying to get a socket on the hex head bolts without stripping one. Install them properly...anti seize, criss cross tightening, and done to torque spec. I have a few spare new clutch sets if you need one..
rock
'64d100

I was afraid the 10.95" clutch wouldn't fit in there. Foiled again...

Was looking at the firewall today, the old single pot leaked pretty bad, there's a lot of surface rust around the MC mount and steering column hole. Hope it will clean up or this whole thing might be an exercise in futility. Was also pondering how big of a hole I would need to drill and whether or not I could put it through a grommet for a finished look.

The more I think about it, I'm really leaning towards the hydraulic setup. It almost seems too good to be true in regards how easy it would be to deal with.

Still would like to get definitive info on the correct clutch fork, but everything else is pretty clear.

Thanks for all the input fellas, I'm feeling pretty confident I'm on the right track and that this will be a worthwhile project.

Greg

Hello,

Fork is real easy....either available goes with the 833 bells. Two bells, large trans. input at 5 1/8 inch hole for 833OD, smaller hole for 833 non OD. I can emal you pics of each of you pm me with your regular email address. I have some spare sets of fork and bell I'd let you have one of.....it is nearly as easy as it sounds, if you talk to those of us who have done it. You can spend many hours looking and measuring otherwise. It is why I got spare sets.... for mockup on the bench.

rock
'64d100

Sorry didn't get back to you sooner there Rock, was not near the computer this weekend.

Good advice on the mockup. Forks seem to be easy to get a hold of, I can always get rid of whatever I don't need.

Might be a little while before I actually dive in to this thing, since I'd like to do both the brakes and rear end while I have things apart. I'm acquiring the parts for all that stuff as we speak.

I'll update my progress as it happens. Thanks again for all the input and advice, this board is cool.

Greg

Anyone have success with a Ram clutch? I was reading an older thread and came across this exchange:

[url]http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22859&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15&sid=a36cfc390eef5ba14b092779a6c5df73[/url]

If the 10.95" McLeod will absolutely, positively not fit in the OD bell, the Ram 10.5" setup looks like it may be a good choice. (if it fits)

Greg