The FSM shows the adjustment procedure but requries a torque wrench that drops below 1ft-lb (smallest measurment was 1.5-4.5 in-lb). My electric one doesn't drop that low. Can anyone give me guidelines to do it by feel?

That manual box I have in there now has slop like no other at all positions of the wheel. Hmm, maybe its just giving me an excuse to get a 20:1 box. Only if they didn't cost $375.

By feel? No, especially when you get to inch-pounds. Get an inch-pound torque wrench. Or are you saying that yours is an inch-pound wrench that doesn't go low enough?
How about a 20:1 gearset?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I thought there was a "keep tightening until the jiggle in this direction is gone" sort of ballpark. Guess not

I was thinking about installing my own gearset but how do I know the other hardparts in the box are ok? Isn't there at least 2 other bearings in it?

That would be great, and I'm sure a lot have been adjusted exactly that way - and then tended to bind when actually turned out of that sector. IIRC, the adjustment is a bit involved, measuring the force needed to turn the box (disconnected). Instead of a torque wrench, one might be able to improvise with a bar and weight. I think it'd be easier on the bench than on the car.
Bearings or bushings, and they should be replaced as well as the seals. The FSM is your friend.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I have made these adjustments many times, and with just a screwdriver and wrench. Get car sitting level with wheels and steering wheel straight, loosen the locknut, note where the screw is pointed, tighten screw until you feel some resistance, and tighten locknut while holding the screw fixed. Maybe back off 1/8 turn after it seats in. If you want to be really careful, just go tighter in 1/4 turn increments until the steering feels tighter.

When the box is really worn, it will not help to adjust it.

BTW, the box has a tight spot in the steering when the input shaft is centered, so if the steering wheel is not pointed straight when the wheels are straight you will not get that benefit and the adjustment will not help as much. An alignment shop can set your toe by rotating BOTH tie rods to bring the steering wheels straight while the wheels are straight, if your frontend has not been smacked around.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, that sounds like your talking about the cross shaft adjustment, what about the bearing preload adjustment (the big locknut that points towards the colum?)

Yes, I misunderstood your question. I just "eyeballed" it by feel for the big bearing adjustment when I assembled my last box with 20:1 guts.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I adjusted mine by pretty much the same method. I also tighten it up so that when making a turn, its just loose enough that the wheel self centers when released.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir