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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:41 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:31 am
Posts: 189
Location: Addison Illinois
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I'm gonna be rebuilding the front suspension of my 1974 Satellite soon. Since I'll have everything out from under the car, I'm going to take the opportunity and remove the K member to reweld some very scary looking factory welds. I intend to support the engine across the inner fenderwells w/ a piece of 2"x 2" angle iron, and was thinking of using an eyebolt in the threaded hole in the head that the alternator bracket bolts into . Anyone have a better idea, better lifting point or done this before ? Thanks Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:27 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Haven't done it that way, but 2X2 angle iron sounds light to me. Even my cheapest jackstands are more substantial, and they're loaded mostly in compression, not bending (shear/tension).

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1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:27 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
Posts: 1044
Location: Maine
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A slant six comes out of the car so easily... it might be easier to just pull the slant altogether. That would give you more room to work on & around that crossmember.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:30 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
I 2nd pulling the engine. You can detail the engine compartment while it's out and take care of any engine leaks you may have.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:31 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I did a K-member swap on 70 something Dart once. As I recall, I supported the engine from below with a block of wood and a bottle jack under the oil pan.

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'98 Dodge Dakota
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Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:31 am
Posts: 189
Location: Addison Illinois
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Well the angle iron I plan to use is 2"x2"x 1/4", so its strong enough to take the engines weight. But no one on here has ever done it this way before ?? Thanks Dave


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 9:01 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
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I've did it that way when I was doing my modded k-frame swap, but I used a 4x4 post. Worked fine, other than the 4x4 was too long. Motor hung there for quite awhile as it took some time to get everything right.

Mopar Action did it once, as well.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:49 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:19 pm
Posts: 291
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Just a quick thought. If the steel is strong enough you could do it. Pulling the motor would be preferred but if you can't, you can't.
I would at least put some wood between the steel and the inner fenders to spread out the load on the fenders.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:51 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:31 am
Posts: 189
Location: Addison Illinois
Car Model:
Ahh very good idea w/ the wood to help spread out the load a bit.. I didn't think about that...


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:07 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Wood and old towels (folded a few times for uneveness and scratches) on the fenders.............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:09 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:31 am
Posts: 189
Location: Addison Illinois
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Ahhhh that's the best idea I've heard all day. Thank you to all for posting..Dave


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