I acquired a piece of orchard equipment that has a Slant 6 as the power plant. It was stuck. We broke it loose and got it started. It runs on all 6 cylinders only by dumping gas into the carb. The carb was badly corroded.

I'm fabricating a cherry tree harvester. For my application, using this engine would be easy. Should I screw with it or get something else. I could put any engine in I want. I just need something that runs well, is reliable and something I can get parts for.

Looks like the first thing that needs help is the carb. Can anyone tell me what this carb is? Replace, rebuild? It was very plugged up when I popped it open.

That's a Carter BBS with manual choke and clamp-band style air cleaner mounting. If it's truly full of cement, then maybe replacing it would be wise. On the other hand, it wouldn't cost much to buy a pail of dip-type carburetor cleaner and a quality kit and see if you can save it.

Should you use the slant-6 engine in your cherry harvester? Of course you should! They make excellent agricultural/industrial powerplants, and you can get a great deal of free help with it on this forum.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Cement is a good description. I was able to blow air through a number of the ports/tubes though. It might be worth a try to clean and rebuild.

I'll need to find an automatic transmission for my application. I'm sure there are a number of options for that engine block?

Don't know if I'll need rings, pistons, valve work etc yet. Are parts for this engine easy to come by?

Also, I guess I'll have to figure out exactly what engine I have. Suggestions?

Parts are very easy; it's a very common engine, not an orphan. You'll get plenty of good advice on here as to which parts to buy and which ones to avoid. It's unlikely you'd be hot-rodding a slant-6 used in an application such as yours, so regular standard rebuild parts would suit just fine. The first thing to do is figure out exactly what you've got there. The engine ID numbers should be stamped on a small extension of the top surface of the cylinder block, located just below the frontmost spark plug. You will likely have to clear away the grease to read them. The ID numbers could also be near the rearmost spark plug. The block casting number is on the manifold side of the block. If you'll tell us what numbers you find, that'll help us identify the displacement and production year of the engine.

Automatic transmissions: Yes, several options, depending on the year of the engine. Will the transmission be used as part of a drivetrain to move the vehicle, or for some other purpose?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

1 225 R is what I find for an engine #. You've almost convinced me on this engine.

Welcome to the board CG. Where are you located?

The Slant lends itself well to industrial applications because it has lots of torque down low. It also works very well with a velocity governor on it if you need to maintain a set speed.

If all else fails, you can find industrial parts for Slants at a forklift graveyard. Slants were used for years in Yale fork trucks. Yale used a damper with at least 4 belt grooves in it if you need to drive anything off the crank.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

1 225 R is on the cylinder block that is. Checking for other #'s.

330-3 is on the engine block.

I'm in northwest lower Michigan.

No governor needed on this machine. Part of the appeal to this engine is it already has couplings off the front of the crank that drives a large hydraulic pump, therefore eliminating the need to fabricate the pump drive.

The transmission will be used as part of the drive train. The machine must move very slow. In order to do that I use an automatic transmission off the engine with a manual transmission coupled behind the automatic. The manual tranny is usually in 2nd or 3rd gear which gears things down a lot and relieves a lot of the strain off the automatic. I've found that this makes using almost any automatic quite feasible. I usually add an external oil cooler to the automatic.

Combines used slants, so did many Lull jobsite 4wd forklifts.

That is an odd ball looking carb as the throttle is reversed from a car motor. Looks close to some of the old BBD's I have from back in the old days.

Get a spray can of WD40 and soak the bowl, brush off the heavy stuff with a tooth brush. Then soak it in a bucket of carb cleaner for a couple of days.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Sounds like a 904 will work well. Watch the 'For Sale' section, they turn up in there often.

I don't have any stock ones left, I give them all to my trans guy in NW Indiana. He may be able to help you out though.

http://www.geocities.com/kfl727speciali ... alist.html

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Nope...very conventional BBS. The only features that differ a little from ordinary passenger car units are the manual choke and the clamp-band air cleaner attachment. This is a standard-issue BBS as used on Dodge trucks through about '67 or so. The manual choke cable -- or its rusted remains, more like -- has fallen off its bracket and is resting on/near the top of the throttle lever, which may be what you are seeing as a "reversed" throttle.

The BBD throttle arrangement doesn't look anything like this.
WD40 is not a carburetor cleaner and will do little but waste your time if what you're trying to do is clean up a crusty carburetor. Spray-type carburetor cleaner (Berryman B12 ChemTool is my fave) or lacquer thinner, and dip-type carburetor cleaner (Berryman B9 ChemDip is my pref) are what's needed here.
That's usually way too long. You want to soak the carb for the minimum length of time needed to clean it up. Beyond that, you eat protective coating off the carb castings.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

1 225 R isn't quite enough of a number to go on. Are you sure there aren't additional numbers stamped nearby, maybe hiding under mud or grease?

Failing that, how 'bout a data plate affixed to the engine somewhere?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.