Quote:
That's why, I drill the cam gear and use a bushing, leaving the crank gear at zero.
Kinda hard to advance a cam 6 degrees when the bushings only go up to 4... 
-D.Idiot
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| Installing the crank gear. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24755 |
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| Author: | kmccabe56 [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Installing the crank gear. |
OK, I've got my Rollmaster timing chain & gear set ready to install. I've found TDC. When I put the crank gear on at the "0" keyway, the dot on the crank gear lines up nicely with the dot on the cam gear. When I re-locate the crank gear to the 4° advanced do I realign the dots before installing the chain or do I just rotate the gear and let it go at that ? Next: Who sells the press to put the gear back on ? I've found lots of gear pullers, which I have, but I need one of those lovely fine thread rods to go into the crank post with a big nut on it to press the gear back on. Finally: Is the crank gear supposed to be that much of an interference fit ? The first time I tried to start it, the ribs between the keyways were galling the gear diameter of the crank in a big, bad way. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The JP (Oz) set I have also was a very stiff fit. I honed mine out a bit after first install and removal (a bear). If you run a balancer bolt, you don't need as much int fit. You could also heat it in a toaster oven before install to expand the gear. Lou |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yup...preheat the crank gear in a 450°F oven for 90 minutes or so...meanwhile you can ice down the crank snout so it's nice and cold. Then the gear should go right on. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Nope... |
Quote: Yup...preheat the crank gear in a 450°F oven for 90 minutes or so...meanwhile you can ice down the crank snout so it's nice and cold. Then the gear should go right on.
Lou is right, I just tryed this two weeks back and the gear area of the crank snout is .020 larger than the ID of the gear, also the crank key ways needed to be filed a bit to work with a stock key. To get the crank gear on after a bit of massaging, 10 minutes of heating the gear with a MAPP gas torch and then having to use a big socket to 'rap' the gear into place did the trick. FYI, -D.Idiot Of course the maddening part is if you degree the cam in the first time, then find you have to pull the gear and advance the cam.... |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nope... |
Quote: Of course the maddening part is if you degree the cam in the first time, then find you have to pull the gear and advance the cam.... |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Lol... |
Quote: That's why, I drill the cam gear and use a bushing, leaving the crank gear at zero.
Kinda hard to advance a cam 6 degrees when the bushings only go up to 4... -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Rick [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 3:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I know that there is not a wide range of off the shelf cams for a slant but ,in my opinion, if you have to advance or retard a cam more than 4 degrees you have the wrong cam. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Lol... |
Quote: Quote: That's why, I drill the cam gear and use a bushing, leaving the crank gear at zero.
Kinda hard to advance a cam 6 degrees when the bushings only go up to 4... -D.Idiot 
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| Author: | dakight [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If one cam gear tooth is 9.5* then you should be able to get anything you need with bushings up to 5*, or so it seems to me. |
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