Want another wiring challenge? Add a relay! It gets full battery voltage to both the coil and the module (which, I found out, will help prevent premature module failure).
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| HEI Conversion Finished and Lessons Learned https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24839 |
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| Author: | MOPARZWALKER [ Sun Sep 09, 2007 8:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | HEI Conversion Finished and Lessons Learned |
First of all my father was an electrical engineer and no way did I get the voltage gene. I would rather buy a new car than work on electrical problem. My wife does the light bulbs at home and my daughter in law does the household wiring projects. My son didn't get the gene either. Get the Idea? So first of all i want to thank Dan for trying to make this conversion as easy as possible and for answering my dumb questions. Just finished my HEI conversion and this is what I learned so far. Get out the FSM and learn the primary ignition circiuts. Trace wires. Learn the difference between 12 14 and 16 gauge wiring. Have extra wiring and terminals on hand and ready to use. All sizes. Use only the lx-301 part, the other brands are not always marked. C, E, etc. Use Dan's page ONLY the link to the other conversion web site has the pictures backwards to me. That missing gene again? If your car has other problems like hard starting, carb/idle problems, flooding, etc. fix them before starting this project. Check you old wiring. Mine had 1 insulation break 1 slice and 1 bad terminal end. These are old cars. Go ahead and ground the module with extra ground wire at install. One less thing to worry about. Yes use the greasy messy stuff in the module package, all of it. YES there are 2 wires going to the positive post and 1 to the negative side if you are not using a tach or anything extra. The second positive wire HAS to come from your old ignition wiring. IF you wire up module backwards it will probably ruin it. I did, that missing gene again. Check and double check, print out Dan's page and take to the car with you. Convex means horseshoe pointing up? I did mine one step at a time. Module first, run car. Install new blaster coil, run car. Change cap and rotor, run car. Less things to worry about. For me the second longest part was bundling the old wires at the ballast resister. Took the old b/r and smashed it with a hammer. Took the plug in and made a doule ended male terminal to fit the wires together and taped. Looks pretty good. Car idles smoother and has better pickup it seems. The next one will take a lot less time and be easier i am sure. Dan, a really good picture (big) of module wiring would be useful but thanks again for the article and help. |
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| Author: | Jopapa [ Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Want another wiring challenge? Add a relay! It gets full battery voltage to both the coil and the module (which, I found out, will help prevent premature module failure).
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| Author: | MOPARZWALKER [ Sun Sep 09, 2007 11:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Looks good but no thanks, I think I am maxed out on my electrical capabilities. |
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| Author: | 68barracuda [ Sun Sep 09, 2007 11:50 am ] |
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Quote: Want another wiring challenge? Add a relay! It gets full battery voltage to both the coil and the module (which, I found out, will help prevent premature module failure).
Hi What kind of voltage where you getting before hand - no relays here and i am running 13.4 VDirectly on the Bat 13.6V measured losing .2V in the harness Still have to check during cranking - any diff's here? Fanie |
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