Slant Six Forum
https://slantsix.org/forum/

Front Disc Conversion- 1964 Dart
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25012		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  SpaceFrank [ Wed Sep 19, 2007 8:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Front Disc Conversion- 1964 Dart
Hello, all. I've been thinking about converting my front brakes from drums to discs, and I wanted to know which parts I will need. This is a four-door 1964 Dart with a 225 /6. Can I use the stock brake rotors and calipers from a newer Dodge, and if so, what year? This car is primarily a daily driver, so should I even think about slotted or vented discs?

Also, I would love to upgrade from my single reservoir master cylinder to a dual-reservoir system. The lines branch out in a fairly accessible location, so my only major concern is that I get the correct unit. Is this also a stock part for a newer A-body? Is it possible to get them new rather than "re-manufactured"? I have no desire to add power brakes, I just want the dual-reservoir.

Any suggestions on manufacturers for any of this hardware? I know some companies have less-than-stellar reputations when it comes to classic parts.

Thanks in advance.
Author:  slantvaliant [ Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Front Disc Conversion- 1964 Dart
Quote:
...I wanted to know which parts I will need.
There are several possible swaps. My '64 Valiant now has late-A-body disks, using upper control arms, knuckles, and upper balljoints from the '73-'76 A-body disk cars, and uses rotors, calipers, etc from the same cars.

Here are a few of the many references on the web:
Mopar Action
Big Block Dart
Tom Condran
Quote:
...This car is primarily a daily driver, so should I even think about slotted or vented discs?
I wouldn't. Spend the money on good quality stock replacement rotors and pads.
Quote:
Also, I would love to upgrade from my single reservoir master cylinder to a dual-reservoir system.
Easy enough. There are a few different piston sizes to consider, depending on the caliper piston and wheel cylinder sizes used and the pedal feel preferred. Mine was spec'ed for a '76 Valiant with front disks, but there are many that will work. An adapter may be needed to mount to your firewall. There are several suppliers on the 'net.
Author:  Sir Lancelot [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:22 pm ]
Post subject:  front disk conversion
Contact master power brakes and they will help you. you can find them in most of the mopar mags. I used a proportioning valve from a 73 Dart. I purchased a master cylinder for a 73 dart advance. i strongly encourage you to buy Chrysler performance upgrades by Frank Adkins ISBN: 1884089-40-2 it will answer most if not all your questions about upgrading your A body.

Lancelot
Author:  Matt Cramer [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:35 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Hello, all. I've been thinking about converting my front brakes from drums to discs, and I wanted to know which parts I will need. This is a four-door 1964 Dart with a 225 /6. Can I use the stock brake rotors and calipers from a newer Dodge, and if so, what year?
I'm running the Mopar Action conversion on my '66: '73-'76 A-body disc brake spindles, upper control arms, and ball joints, combined with late '70s B/R body discs for some huge stopping power. Note that this changes the front bolt pattern and requires 15" or larger wheels.
Quote:
This car is primarily a daily driver, so should I even think about slotted or vented discs?
Vented discs are good - nearly all stock Mopar disc brakes worth swapping in are, in fact, vented. But I wouldn't bother with slotted on a daily driver, and wouldn't use cross drilled on anything.

I'd go with a later A-body master cylinder... these bolt right on.
Author:  Bing Kunzig [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:29 am ]
Post subject:  front disc brake conversion
Get the book"Performance Handling for Classic Mopars" by Tom Condran.It will answer all your questions. I found it indispensable
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:41 am ]
Post subject:  Re: front disc brake conversion
Quote:
Get the book"Performance Handling for Classic Mopars" by Tom Condran.It will answer all your questions.
...only you have to be careful, because many of the "answers" you'll get from Condran's book will steer you in the wrong direction. :-(
Author:  valiantboy_66 [ Fri Oct 19, 2007 7:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Has anyone tried the 9'' disk brake conversion that is posted on E-bay. The mounting brackets are like 100 bucks. But what other parts are needed? Has anyone done this and do you think it is cost efective?
Author:  shrt bus [ Tue Oct 23, 2007 4:34 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Has anyone tried the 9'' disk brake conversion that is posted on E-bay. The mounting brackets are like 100 bucks. But what other parts are needed? Has anyone done this and do you think it is cost efective?
Yep Yep.. just got done with this conversion.

The conversion uses 90 Chevy Celebrity rotors and calipers. I used a 72 manual MC from a Dart, adj. proportioning valve for the rear bias.

The only two MAJOR things is that you need to do is turn down the existing brake drums to create hubs and have the Chevy rotors redrilled on a 5x4 bolt pattern.

The kit comes with part #'s for all you need to help with the conversion.

Car stops now like a top.

Good luck!

Rick
Author:  AnotherSix [ Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:35 am ]
Post subject: 
After looking at everything available last year I ended up going with the 73 - 76 A body parts. It really is a solid system and replacement parts are not a problem or hassle to get. Other than minor line work for the master cylinder, adjustable prop. valve and residual pressure valve it all bolts right in, and quickly. I used a later aluminum master, but a disk brake cylinder from the 73 - 76 range will work fine and are easy to get. I went with the 11" rotors rather than the larger B body rotors and brackets, since I was concerned about the weight. When my new rotors arrived, they weighed 25 lbs each, the larger ones are are only a couple of pounds more. I needed new wheels no matter what, so the large pattern made more sense. Now the car also has 10" rear drums as well.

With the Scare Bird kits, you likely will need rally wheels anyway. Aftermarket wheels for the small pattern are expensive and selection is limited. The brackets do not support the caliper on the outboard side of the rotor, so they will tend to wear the pads unevenly and not work quite like they should. It is really not much less expensive, and not nearly as good as the later, factory setup.
Author:  SpaceFrank [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Okay, let me get this straight. I can buy stock rotors and a stock dual res. master cylinder for a 73-76 A-body and they bolt right on with a little reworking to make the lines fit the master. I can handle that. I also need a proportioning valve and a residual pressure valve.

Questions:
1. Can I get the rotors and master from a regular auto parts store?
1a. What about the spindle?
2. Where can I get a residual pressure valve and proportional valve? Junkyard part?
2a. What is a residual pressure valve?
3. Will the 73-76 A-body rotors change my bolt pattern from the 64 A-body drum?
4. In what years was the aluminum master available?

Thanks for all the info. I'm planning to do this as soon as final exams are over and I go back home where all the tools are. :D This doesn't sound like a difficult operation, but I want to make sure I track down all the parts in time. In case I hadn't mentioned it, I only plan to do the conversion on the front, as there's no reason to completely put falsies on Grandma. However, I do plan to get some more horsepower out of my engine in the near future, so performance is what I have in mind.
Author:  andyf [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 12:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well no, you don't quite have it all straight yet. Read thru the links that people provided you and you'll get it figured out. Really, one of the first steps is to figure out if you're going to stay small bolt pattern or go big bolt pattern. Once you decide that then the choices are easier.
Author:  slantvaliant [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Questions:
1. Can I get the rotors and master from a regular auto parts store?
Yes. New is better. Usd master cylinders are a crapshoot. You will need to split the brake lines front to rear when going from the single to dual master cylinder. Use a double-flare, and make sure you put the fittings on before flaring.
Quote:
1a. What about the spindle?
No - junkyard or parts car is the usual source. 73-76 disk brake A-body spindles work just fine, F-M-J body spindles get some folks riled up. You'll also need the upper control arms (UCA's) from a disk brake 73-76 A-body, and appropriate upper balljoints.
Quote:
2. Where can I get a residual pressure valve and proportional valve? Junkyard part?
Summit has PROPORTIONING and
RESIDUAL PRESSUE VALVES, as do many other sources - Jegs, Wilwood, etc.
Quote:
2a. What is a residual pressure valve?
A valve that holds some pressure in the wheel cylinder.
Quote:
3. Will the 73-76 A-body rotors change my bolt pattern from the 64 A-body drum?
Yes. To 5 on 4.5" "Large Bolt Pattern", or LBP
Quote:
4. In what years was the aluminum master available?
Sorry, don't know.
Quote:
However, I do plan to get some more horsepower out of my engine in the near future, so performance is what I have in mind.
You're on the right track to get the brakes and suspension right before hopping it up.
Author:  SpaceFrank [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the info. How will I know which proportional and residual vales to buy?
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you use the combination valve from a 70s disc car you wont need a proportioning or residual valve.
Author:  dafrogtoad [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hello. I'm "where the tools are' in Space's post.
I noticed that this conversion will take Space to a large bolt pattern. Assuming that is unavoidable, what can he do to swap the rears to LBP cheaply? carrying 2 spares would be a drag.
Page 1 of 2 All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/