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| Distributor ?? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25152 |
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| Author: | u362284 [ Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Distributor ?? |
Does the ele. dist. w/vacuum adv. also have the centrifical advance on it? part #3755042. Thanks Bob |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes. |
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| Author: | u362284 [ Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Distributor ?? |
Thank you!! Thank you!! Thank you!! Thats what I wanted to hear. I'm new with these Dodge parts and learning lots here. Bob |
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| Author: | Matt Cramer [ Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just wondering - are you from the air cooled VW world? They're kind of infamous for running a vacuum advance distributor without centrifugal advances. I don't think Mopars ever did something like that. |
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| Author: | u362284 [ Mon Oct 01, 2007 6:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Distbutor ?? |
No VW world here. When I say centrifical I mean the weights and spring mechanism. Dan replied yes to my question, and the dist. that I bought, the seller e-mail me and said it had both the vac. advance and mechanical advance on it. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | 1973-1974... |
Quote: 3755042
Yeah, that would be a 'first' gen EI distributor for 1973-1974, expect 'if all stock', that the mech advance is a '15' style governor (30 degrees of crank advance), with a Vacc. adv pod stamped 8.5R (17 degrees of vacc. advance). -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | mszauner [ Tue Oct 02, 2007 12:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Still At It |
OK. I am sorry for being so stupid about this. For some reason, I am still not getting something. I replaced the carb with a new-new (thanks again Dan). After the oil pump debacle, I put the distributor back in and set the timing where it was before. It would still stall at a light when warm (auto tranny in gear foot on brake). So, I started playing again. I set the advance almost to 20 degrees. That took care of the problem. However for only about two days. For some reason, no matter what I do for this problem, it fixes it great for 2 days to 2 weeks and then goes right back to the same stalling problem even though I leave it alone. What in the world am I missing. Should I advance it even more? This seemed to be the best correction thus far. I suspect the marks on the damper are not correct. And the curving I STILL cannot understand. I never find any vacuum leaks. Last compression check was perfect. What am I missing and why would the problem go away for a short time and then return. |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Tue Oct 02, 2007 2:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would look for vacuum leaks and also check for a stretched and or jumped timing chain. |
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| Author: | mszauner [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | nope |
Well, the timing chain is new. Not that new means it is still OK for sure. I have checked a bazillion times using propane for vacuum leaks and never found one. What puzzles me is how it works OK after I do something (adjust carb, install new carb, etc. but then after a few days or weeks it is back to stalling. In my most recent case, the timing was EXACTLY where I had set it but I just bumped it up more and it fixed the problem for a few days, now back to stalling and yet the timing is where I set it. Either we have to figure this out or I need to see the nice men in their clean white coats. They're coming to take me away ha ha They're coming to take me away ho ho he he ha ha To the funny farm........ |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Hmmm... |
You might try carb cleaner instead of propane since it's a nice 'shot' right on the area and produces immediate results. If you can rock the crank pulley back and forth (10-20 degrees worth) with the distributor cap off and see that the timing chain is tight both ways. I might suspect your fuel pump, or even the needle and seat/ float in the carb. Another shot might be the choke isn't set right, or your valve lash is a bit tight causing it to roughen up when warm and stall it for a while. You may even need to do Dan's Fuel line mod if vapor lock is in order... ??? -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | mszauner [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Ok |
I did the fuel line mod and I have hydraulic lifters. I will try the carb cleaner method for leaks and recheck that and the other areas. It is just so strange that things are fine for a few days after doing something...anything, and then it's back to it's old tricks. Maybe it's possessed???? |
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| Author: | slantvaliant [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Give me a call when you can. My Valiant had a long term stalling problem that turned out to be from rust in the gas tank, clogging the fuel filter and messing with the carb. |
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| Author: | mszauner [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | New |
The gas tank and fuel pump are brand new as is the carb. There is no dirt in the fuel filter. I just don't get it. It is the intermittent part that is really the stumper. |
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