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| Sources for Body Lead https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25211 |
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| Author: | ceej [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Sources for Body Lead |
I've started searching for lead, flux, files, spoons and such. Has anyone got a favorite source for these materials and tools? Any good books or internet links for a newbie to the process? So far I'm finding 1/4# bars for between $2.50 -$3.00 on the internet. The Lead free stuff is pretty pricey... I'm going to check with my local resources tomorrow. The Valiant needs some serious attention.  CJ |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Old wheel weights..... 
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| Author: | 6shotvanner [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
CJ,www.eastwood.com.Still ain't cheap but they have alot of cool stuff 
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| Author: | starion88esir [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Old wheel weights.....
These melt down pretty easy. Be careful though, lead is, as we all know, very harmful when breathing. Make sure you wear a respirator and work in an open space.
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| Author: | ceej [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I found the Eastwood site. They have a lot of cool stuff alright!  After I check with my favorite local Parts house, if they don't have them, I'll place an order. How many think I'll light something on fire? I'll pull the squad over with the pro-pak just in case! CJ |
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| Author: | 6shotvanner [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
CJ,our local vol/fire folks use the old tuesday nite practice. I think I'd try on a tuesday and then if it was a burnin I be like "I planned it this way as a test to check on responce time"  Good luck
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| Author: | sethmcneil [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 2:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
see what your local firing range does with all the rounds they sweep up at the end of the day  I don't know if thats the kind of led you want though! |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used lead on my first real restoration, and was not at all happy with it. It can be the source of any number of different kinds of contamination that will come back and raise hell with your paint. I do not recommend you do it. It is heavy It is dangerous because of the flame. The heat can warp your panels. It is toxic. The flux will cause rust. The stuff you put on your paddles to keep the lead from sticking to the paddles will cause contamination with the paint. It can look good and still not be really adhered to the metal well. There are far better ways to fill panels with modern chemicals. There is a reason very few people use this stuff anymore. Why do you want to use it? I can give you a better idea if you are interested. Sam |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | I concur... |
Quote: There is a reason very few people use this stuff anymore. 1It'd be fine if you were doing an ol' tyme resto... But I had a co-worker whose husband used to be one of the best lead filler guys in town, 15 years back he was on disablilty and had to quit being a body guy due to the effects of lead on his body... and you my friend should live a long happy fruitful life, so you can get out and race some more  -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | ceej [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm open to suggestions. What do you recommend? CJ |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I like to recommend a rust free car...... |
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| Author: | ceej [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 8:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Here's the problem. This car had a vinyl roof. I don't want to put vinyl back on it. The C-Pillar was not finished at the factory. There is a weld at the base of the pillar from the back of the rear passenger door to the back window. It's about 1/2" deep and three inches wide. CJ |
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| Author: | dakight [ Sat Oct 06, 2007 7:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Body solder is fine, lead-free is best, if applied properly and cleaned and prepped properly. The catch is that few people any more know how to work with it. Polyester body filler is much friendlier and easier to work but you should only use a thin layer. Work the metal until you have it nearly perfect then use a skim coat of polyester filler to finish it off. If you do use lead be sure to wear a proper respirator, not just a dust mask, and do not under any circumstances sand it. You may file it, but sanding releases a fine dust of lead that will be nearly impssible to clean up. If I were doing it I would only use the lead free body solder, just skip it alltogether and stick with polyester or epoxy. |
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| Author: | ceej [ Sat Oct 06, 2007 9:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
So how do I fill in the canyon? This isn't an area that is going to allow me to work the metal. The resin type fillers crack in this deep an application. CJ |
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| Author: | 6shotvanner [ Sat Oct 06, 2007 10:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
CJ, how bout cutting a filler piece out of sheet metal, weld that in and then do the bondo skin? Hope that helps. |
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