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 Post subject: 8 3/4 question
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:41 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2005 6:39 pm
Posts: 80
Location: Warren, Michigan
Car Model:
MY converted to rear wheel drive Turismo will be here in a couple weeks for the Slant I am working on but the sellers removal of the A-Body 8 3/4 had me looking for another........ :?
I spoke with Louie Bastenelli, Retired Forge Dept. Production Forman at Eldon Axle (Mopar's birthplace of the 8 3/4), about if the housings were stretched in any way to make a D-B-A series truck axle housing VS the much narrower (and now with GOLD Value) A-Body housing.
He said that the Rt or Lt Banjo Half of the Housing was forged from the same piece of pipe. After the housing was welded at the banjo in the center and its Hat/Bowl installed, the piece was sent to which ever size machining line as its eventual application required. They just cut off the tubes excess not needed for that size. :)
He also pointed out that since the A-Body (narrowest) and the D-series truck and C-Body Station Wagon (widest) were forged (Hot Formed actually) from the same 3"od tubing the A-Body rear hoiusing was the strongest when it came to resisting deflection or end walk.
My focus is concern with using another A-Body housing or have a wider Truck or C/Body Wagon housing narrowed along with its axles?
Looking at an A-100 van housing and ITS axles compared to those from a stock A-body housing it looks like if new splines were cut, along with the narrowing process of the housing, in the longer shafts there is more meat and therefore a stronger axle to do this mod with.
His opinion, from his own drag days in the late 60's to mid 70's, is that if the A-Body housing is exactly what I need just cutting to length and resplining Truck axles would be the best most durable way to go.
He threw a word of caution in here as his dept made these housings but also re tempered the spline end of ALL the axles after they were machined.
Are the rear end mod shops doning this too today? Curie, Strange, DTS, etc.? I never saw this mentioned in their ads.......
My question is for input/opinions of those racing today with 8 3/4" behind a stout Slant.
Does it sound correct and more durable to have the wider or widest housing and axles narrowed for my application or hunting down another A-Body 8 3/4" complete?
With enough shops taking on the business of this mod, cost for this mod is falling just under the cost of a GOOD complete A-Body 8 3/4 and its conversion to Big Bolt Pattern.
Thanks for all your input, :wink:
Terry

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14849
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
You will need truck, van, C, or E body axles to be able to have them cut. Any housing will work. Moser did a pair of axles for me a few years ago. I do not believe they were re-heated.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:49 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
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I wouldnt see why they would need retempered if cut properly(not heated up) unless just the end if the axle was tempered. Alot of guys here with pig blocks run the same 8 3/4's we do.???
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
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How much power are you looking to make? Depending on your needs, you could get anything from cut down stock shafts to brand new shafts (or for that matter, a complete fabricated new axle housing - Mosler can make an entire 8 3/4" from scratch these days...).

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 Post subject: 8 3/4
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:20 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2005 6:39 pm
Posts: 80
Location: Warren, Michigan
Car Model:
My objective is to have a stout Rear assy for just about anything I can twist through it.
Remember that when C-body or Truck axles are shortened to make my final assy. the part cut off its length may remove part of the hardened section. THAT is my concern. :?
My Eldon Axle buddy could not verify if the entire axle was hardened all the way through or, like a Mopar Crank, only Tuftrided .017" deep. :roll:
Also remember that on the Station Wagon and Truck axles the taper steps (to larger OD) start closer to the original factory cut splines.
Therefore the axle section to be resplined may need (OD) to be turned down also.
That was my other question.
Cost (like most everybody else) is a main consideration.
I am hoping for a low 12 second /6 car.
Thanks to all. Your insight and experience is of great value. :wink:
Terry

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