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160 vs 180 stat
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25369		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:46 pm ]
Post subject:  160 vs 180 stat
I am running a 180* thermostat. After the motor is heat soaked it is more "pingy" under full load. 20 minuits of driving no ping at 25* total timing. After 20 minuits it will start to ping under full load and the longer I drive the worse it gets. Water temp gauge is at 185* steady after the first 6 minuits of running and never climbs.
What are the disadvantages to using a 160* stat?
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 3:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would try a smaller leap to a 170 and see what gives.

Check your flapper valve.

Tell me about your trans cooler.....
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
A cooler running engine will be more detonation resistant and wear less... it will also get less mpg.

A hotter engine is the opposit so it is a matter of choosing a running temp that meets your needs.

One other thing... the cooler thermostat and running temp will reduce the car's heater performance, most likely not a big issue for you, based on location.
DD
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
A cooler running engine will [...] wear less
I disagree on this point only. Colder thermostat = more quenchout at the cylinder walls = more raw fuel washing down the cylinder walls and watering-down the oil = more engine wear.
Author:  Mark [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:32 am ]
Post subject: 
Running a cooler thermostat will also make the car more prone to overheating. I had a 160 in my Valiant with a 170 and later a 225 with the large radiator with a shroud and an over flow bottle and it would slowly overheat in traffic with or without the AC running. An old guy told me that with the 160 thermostat it opens too early and too wide allowing the coolant to go through the radiator so fast that the coolant never cooled off. After putting a 195 thermostat in it the car could idle all day in drive with the AC running on a 100 plus degree day and it would never overheat
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 5:24 am ]
Post subject: 
That can be very dependant of the cooling system itself, infact most would not overheat with a 160, but yes it can happen.


Jess
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 6:08 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I would try a smaller leap to a 170 and see what gives.

Check your flapper valve.

Tell me about your trans cooler.....
flaper is fixed in closed postion.
Trans cooler is in side can of rad.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 6:54 am ]
Post subject: 
I would think about a separate trans cooler,,,,,,This would be better for the trans and may keep your engine coolant temps lower.
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:20 am ]
Post subject: 
ditto on the separate trans cooler

also... maybe, 25 BTDC total is too retard and that's overheating a little?

what's in your radiator? (coolant? water? mix?)

what rad cap are you running?
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:47 am ]
Post subject: 
100% water right now. Cap is 23-25 psi Moroso. The engine is not running hot. It never climbs over 185*. Never. Even with the A/C on.
Running a colder stat will reduce mileage.
Running more timing should increase mileage- right?
Maybe it'll be a wash?
Maybe just retard timing a bit more and keep the same 180* stat.
I am wanting to hook up the vac advance sometime, but I afraid it going to be ping city.
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
100% water right now. Cap is 23-25 psi Moroso. The engine is not running hot. It never climbs over 185*. Never. Even with the A/C on.
Running a colder stat will reduce mileage.
Running more timing should increase mileage- right?
Maybe it'll be a wash?
Maybe just retard timing a bit more and keep the same 180* stat.
I am wanting to hook up the vac advance sometime, but I afraid it going to be ping city.
are you SURE about *retarding* your timing? are you absolutely positive your wide band is giving you good readings and you're not lean? jetting on the primaries? have you tried closing shut your secondaries and get some wideband readings?

as far as increasing timing=more mileage, that's not always 100% right. Sometimes when you're too far advanced your mileage drops, under certain conditions.

I used to have a 165° stat. (71°C) I read somewhere that A/C cars shouldn't run cooler stats (not sure why, but there's one member that says that his car would overheat with A/C and colder stats)

It strikes me as odd that you're still pinging after all the work you've done to avoid it. Are head's coolant passages OK? do you have a head temp sensor hooked up? some senders can be bolted on the engine lift bosses and give you good readings about how's head temp vs block temp. Maybe you're getting ping out of head overheating while temp operation is normal. 100% water should go fine in your weather, alcohol based antifreeze aditives are good and safe on colder areas but they interfere a little with heat transfer. Of course if you don't exceed 20% antifreeze you should be fine on hotter areas too.

maybe your coolant passages are just a little dirty???
Author:  thomasj6604 [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:37 am ]
Post subject: 
I believe a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water would be the factory reccomendation. I've had vehicles overheat using just water. I don't do that anymore! Also,remember that antifreeze has "anti-boil" characteristics which helps prevent overheating. Just my $.02.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Your massive-overpressure radiator cap is a good way to grenade your radiator and cause other water leaks. Beyond that, it's not helping you any. And 100% water is a good recipe for corrosion throughout the entire cooling system and early water pump seal failure.
Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Your massive-overpressure radiator cap is a good way to grenade your radiator and cause other water leaks. Beyond that, it's not helping you any. And 100% water is a good recipe for corrosion throughout the entire cooling system and early water pump seal failure.
The reason for the 100% water is simple. I've pulled the radiator at least 8 times since I ve owned the car (2-2.5 yrs) and have wasted a lot of coolant. Each time I thought it would be the last time and filled it with the 50-50 mix. This time I decided enough is enough and held off on adding the mix.
The cap:
This radiator from BeCool is spec'd for the cap pressure I am running. I have always thought the weak point in any cooling system is the radiator, when it comes to pressure. Have I been misinformed? Its true that I could lower the pressure with out any problems because I am not on the threshhold of boil over.
This radiator is great. Since I had the Spal fan controller burn out I have wired one of the two fan to run all the time with the key on and it runs the same temps as with both 11" fans. Even with the A/C. The new controller is here, just need to find the time to install it.

Back to timing:
I am surprized I still have a detonation issue :shock: Running 9.25:1 on 93 octane. Anyone looking for advice on how to build an engine to run on pump gas should not ask me. :? :wink: :?
What total timing are some of you all running? I thought that most were between 25*-30*. (no vac pod)
I havn't recurved the distributor yet mainly because its intial is 10* and swings to 25* total which isnt real bad. Also I need to get other adjustment worked out first. I am really leaning to get the MSD Timing Computer.
http://www.msdignition.com/tc_3.htm
It sure would make adjusting the curve easier. Lock out the weights and still use the vac pod.
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