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Fuel Economy https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25573 |
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Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | Fuel Economy |
Does any one know if the MOPAR Chrome box does indeed put out more voltage than the MOPAR Orange box? If so, what is the voltage difference between the two and at the coil or ballast resistor? When idling at 750, my orange box puts out 5 volts at the resistor and at the MSD Blaster 2 coil, (no difference) . At 1000 rpm I read almost 7 volts. I imagine it will go higher with rpm but am not sure what the max voltage would be at cruise, (2500 rpm/60 MPH). From what I understand from SlantSixDan's HEI mod, is that the coil will get a full 12 volts or more at idle because the ballast resistor is removed from the circuit. Is this really true and can the Blaster 2 handle the higher voltage? or do you have to run the resistor that comes with the coil? None of the SL6Dan's diagrams show the MSD resistor hooked up. Is there a limiter inside the HEI that keeps voltage from exceeding 12 volts when the alternator outputs 13 to 15 volts depending on rpm? Does anyone have any documentation on output between the 3 different systems? |
Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
All the Mopar-sourced ignition boxes are junk these days |
Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:46 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Dan, Nice..... Are you able to answer some of my questions about your HEI mod...? Some of our local drag racers still use the orange and chrome boxes, others just switch to MSD, but I see in past posts your not fond of the MSD either...... |
Author: | Joshie225 [ Mon Oct 29, 2007 9:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Ted, The ballast resistor was a simple way to get increased energy to the ignition during cranking. The coil is actually wound for the reduced voltage and reduced current draw during normal operation. The ballast resistor also helps increase ignition output under sustained high speed running by cooling off and reducing it's resistance. If you'd like I can go into more detail on this aspect. The old ignition boxes were not designed to limit ignition coil current. They simply switched the coil on and off like the points did previously. The HEI module is considerably more sophisticated and to a large extent controls the coil current. Once the ignition coil is saturated (the magnetic field is no longer increasing) the coil current is reduced to reduce coil heating and energy used. Because the coil and ballast resistor are no longer responsible for controlling the coil current the ignition coil can be redesigned and it's output increased. The HEI upgrade is therefore best accomplished with a new coil. I would suggest a coil from a late '80's to early '90's GM product like a TPI Camaro where the coil was made external to the distributor. |
Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Oct 30, 2007 8:47 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Yes, I would like more information on the ignition systems. I really don't want to swap out my MSD Blaster 2 coil either. It works very well. My NGk UR4 plugs gapped at .040 are running a very, very light cinnamon. |
Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:57 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: Are you able to answer some of my questions about your HEI mod...?
Blaster-2 coil works well with HEI; "E-code" GM HEI external coil might be somewhat better. You do not run any primary (ballast) resistance with HEI. Extremely detailed comparison of Mopar vs. HEI electronic ignition is in this post. Coil/module combo unit info and pics in this post. Ballast resistor info in this post.Quote: I see in past posts your not fond of the MSD either......
I have no objection to the MSD system itself. I've run it myself with fine results. It's just you can accomplish the same thing, less expensively and (if you set it up right) with equal or greater reliability, using HEI.
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