Can you get a cup plug the size you need? I think JB Weld would be just as good if not better than Hard Blok for what you want to do. It's probably pretty close to the same stuff anyway.
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| block filler/rock (epoxy stuff)? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25647 |
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| Author: | Wizard [ Fri Nov 02, 2007 6:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | block filler/rock (epoxy stuff)? |
Hi, I had asked before in other section of this forum before, and got no response. It have to do with plugging the oil passages in the top deck sections and head 's oil drain back holes. All are drilled passages. Reason I do ask is others have used sealer and tapped these holes and plugged with pipe thread plugs. I rather to minimize the drilling and tapping involved so I ask about this idea: Drill a small step say 3 mm depth into these original holes and and use said block rock glue to coat the stepped plugs (fits closely but not so tight or not so loose) and the holes and install them let epoxy cure, and have shop machine both block and head decks flat. What do you think about these hard block epoxy idea? This plugging these oil passages is needed to do the hybrid DOHC/SOHC neon head on a 2.2/2.5 mopar block. Cheers, Wizard |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Can you get a cup plug the size you need? I think JB Weld would be just as good if not better than Hard Blok for what you want to do. It's probably pretty close to the same stuff anyway.
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: ... All are drilled passages. Reason I ask, others have used sealer and tapped these holes and plugged with pipe thread plugs.
This is the best process to use because there is little to no chance that a pipe plug, correctly installed will ever come loose inside your engine.FYI, epoxy is good stuff but it is not resistant to solvent (oil) and it does not like high temps. (over 300 degrees) Block rock is a different product, it is a form of cement. That material has great resistants to solvents and high temps. but tends to shrink over time and is brittle. I would worry about this material coming loose and causing problems. I only use the best "block filler" products, these are the ones that are engineered to expand as they cure / set and I only use this stuff in places where it is "trapped" and will not hurt anything if it shrinks over time and comes loose. DD |
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| Author: | Wizard [ Sat Nov 03, 2007 1:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Good points! I'll have to make do with these tapped stuff. Blah. Nearly just over 3 years ago, did a 1/2" NPT tapping in aluminum, boy that is real torque to turn, yes lubed with cutting fluid too. I'll look into british pipe thread sizes to see if I can find these sizes that so just to drill just little than NPT requires so much drilling to size and weakens the material. Some areas needs flat to seal (milled) where plugs would go, is there a sealer that is resistant to heat and oil attack and don't chip out (during milling)? Thanks! Cheers, Wizard |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Sat Nov 03, 2007 7:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Drill and tap them to a standard thread and install allen setscrews with green loctite. 
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| Author: | Wizard [ Sun Nov 04, 2007 8:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Temperature? |
Most loctites melts around water boiling point or bit above that? The deck surfaces of block & head sees temps bit above coolant temp (around 210F or so). The plugs will have be all solid when milled flat, presents flat surfaces for headgasket to seal against for coolant. Oiling and draining oil is done externally with pipings. Cheers, Wizard |
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