Sometime in the not too distant future, I hope to rebuild the original 225 for my 1979 Aspen. I've been reading up on some of the builds in this board and just wanted to get a few comments/suggestions on my build. I've had the car since new, the engine that's in it now is from an 81 Ram. Works OK, but it's starting to use some oil. The car has 3.23 rear gears and a three speed on the floor. I have a few parts already, such as a front "Dutra" manifold and oversize valves. I have a local machine shop nearby that can do the machining that will be required, they do a lot of SBC stuff , not too many slant sixes, so it's unlikely that they have a honing plate. I don't want to deviate too far from a stock rebuild, just looking for a little more "cool" factor. I'm looking for some advice on cam choices, weather to use a "Y" pipe or dual exhaust. ( It's a bit of an issue with F Body cars) Also wondering if it's possible or even advisable to keep the hydraulic lifter gear from the 81? I plan to keep the Carter 2BBL. Any considerations as far as bore notches or the like to keep in mind ?
- Blair

I had my stock cam reground at Delta Cams in Tacoma, WA which worked out really well because I didn't need to get shorter push rods. Between the regrind and the head and block milling the geometry came out perfect. The cost for a regrind was $35. The extra cam lift does make it have more punch along with the higher compression. Overall it is not sluggish at all. The big difference came after recurving the distributor and getting the valves set right. For my build it seems to like .012 and .022. It is very responsive to the slightest gas pedal pressure.

Not sure about cool factor........it is clean, fresh blue paint and I have a chrome valve cover with a single 2.25" pipe and a Flow Master 40 made by Thrush. It will break the P235 60 14" tires loose with a 2.76 posi.....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hi - I see you also get bypassed

OK from what I have found so far

A Y pipe is the best option for low end torque and drive ability

A high lift .435 to .465 short duration 254 -260 on a 108 -112 centre line cam seems the way to go - still learning this side



Funny thing as far as the valves are concerned - having std valves back cut, and all the usual porting Bronze guides etc. - gives better yield per dollar spend

Send me an PM with yer email - got some specs that might guide you

Fanie

The guys who are making up my headers described the barracuda as the car with the engine thath looks as if it is falling out.

Naw the old leaning tower is quite cool - specially if you hear coments like - "You got an 8 under there - 273 or 318?"

Thanks for the input, Ted. I've seen the specs you posted. The cam regrind sounds interesting, but I'm not sure if I can get that done locally. I suspect it's something that requires the right shop. How does a regrind achieve more lift? I read a lot of the old threads regarding cams and such. I am thinking i would like to try the 270 duration one. I had thoughts about keeping the large head from the 81 Slant, with or without the hydraulic lifters. I like the idea of not having to adjust the valves, although I never really did anyway. Also, I have a new Mopar Chrome cover for that head. My old head's cover needs to be rechromed. Not a big deal, but it all factors in to the budget. I think there may be a little extra room for valve gear if required. I was wondering if the larger valves and cam might require any clearance notches. - Blair
PS I did a lot of Youtube searches looking for anyone who uploaded videos of modified slant sixes. I only found a few. I'd be curious to hear what everyone's engines sound like with all the options for duals, headers, mufflers and such.

The larger valves require some extra relief around them to flow properly.

Notching a piston is only required on extreme valve lift and overlap events plus major milling on the head, like over a .10th.

They grind the base circle on the cam leaving the pointy end alone. So the lifters starting point has now been recessed, thus creating more travel or lift at the point. You can always send the cam out for a regrind, at least you know it works. Some of the new Comp cams have had problems with the oil holes lining up with the cam bearing.

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Aggressive Ted

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ok Ted, I think I can wrap my brain around that one. Again, I'm not sure if there are any local shops that can do that kind of custom grinding. Did you have to provide them with any detailed specs ? It seems the more I read about slant six cam choices, the more complicated it gets. The issue with the oil holes - was that with the comp cams only? How about the Erson cams?
I once ordered a cam for a 318 based on a magazine's recommendations for a mild engine. I probably should have done a little more homework, but that information was hard to find. I thought it was probably a 340 or 360 automatic cam, but I really couldn't notice any difference from the stock 318 cam as far as power or idle. My point is, will a 254 duration cam provide a noticeable difference from a stock cam in a slightly modifed slant? Or will I be left wondering if I put the same cam back in as in the case of my old 318? - Blair.

You should probably check the oil hole alignment on *any* new replacement camshaft. Doc has written several posts about how to do that and how to correct any problems.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Blair,

Doc's posts say Erson cams should be checked too.

The 254 .435 lift grind has more power than stock and idles smooth enough, not quite as smooth as the stock cam. As you go higher lift the idle quality gets a little rougher. I am not sure how far you can go on the cam and still get great mileage. Not many folks brag about there great mileage and .500 lift cam combinations. It would be nice to know more. To get more torque and power you need to get more air in the cylinder. Pocket porting, gasket matching, valve back cutting larger valves and higher lift cams can help make that happen. My choice to do the regrind was based on mileage (120 miles a day) and torque reqmts. to turn the 2.76 gears.

You asked if you will feel a difference changing the cam, since I increased the compression too it is hard to say which part made the biggest difference because it feels better than a new 1974 and my old 76 Volare with the Super Six. A new stock rebuild still feels like a slug to me. Kind of like winding up a rubber band airplane, it goes but not like a rocket. My engine wants to get up and go, but is limited by the little 1920 Holley Carb.
I also drive two cars powered by potent 440's. So I am shooting for the similar response from the SL6. At this point it is very spunky, but could use more carb to really make it feel like a 340 or 440. The throttle response is very snappy and peppy, just need more carb for the follow through. My transmission has never been rebuilt in its life and the torque converter has not been changed either so that limits wheel spin plus I have a Posi rear end. Despite this, On a quick take off the P235 60 siped tires will break loose. So that is a pretty good increase in useable torque and power and it is heck of allot more fun to drive. My wife is always after me to slow down.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks again for the input. As I said, my build is sometime in the future for now, but I'll be doing some more reading here. It certainly sounds like you have a good combination, Ted. I would probably be quite happy with a setup like that along with my 2 barrel, 3.23's and 3 speed. I've been wanting to try a few things for years - and I do mean years! I was prevented by doing a lot of them for various reasons, not the least of which was the fact that the car was my daily driver back in the 80's and it needed to be reliable. I do remember quite a difference when I added the "Super Six" gear. Back then most of my reference came from some direct connection catalogues and a series of articles in "Cars" magazine based on a Dart Lite with a slant six. I guess I missed most of the good Mopar Performance stuff for the 225 while I was busy with other concerns. Too bad really, but it looks as though there are still some smaller manufacturers willing to step up with some equipment. - Blair