I know years ago, direct connection recommended a windage tray as part of their slant six builds, but I'm just wondering now that they're not so easy to come by if they are really of much benefit in a street car. All the old magazines used to say they were cheap horse power, because they kept they oil off the crank. Wouldn't that apply more to higher RPM operation? Any thoughts? - Blair

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Blair Furlotte
1979 Dodge Aspen 225 "Super Six" 3-speed
Original owner

Mike Jeffrey makes a copy of the old DC tray, and also makes scrapers. 308-324-3576. He does them during the winter when he is not farming or racing.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Windage trays and crank scrapers do make a difference at high rpms, where the racers are looking for any extra power they can get, and where street cars seldom go.

Are they worth the purchase price and cost of installation? It's a little like asking about the best color for your car. It all depends ...

I sure wouldn't tear an engine down just to install them. But if I were building an engine to occasionally race (after I win the lottery) and wanted to make sure I covered all the bases, I'd do all sorts of oil-control work including scrapers and maybe a tray.

It'd be interesting to see a good test with and without, comparing fuel use at the same acceleration rates to and from city/highway speeds.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

There was a big thread on scrapers/trays a year or two ago on here. The only one claiming good power gains out of a scraper/tray on the street was someone else selling them. Mike claims about 7 horse at upper RPM for a tray, he never said on a scraper.

Personally, for just a street motor a scraper would be of more value than a tray. Plus, the trays have been known to crack at the "legs" and get into the crank.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

What is a crankshaft scraper? I know what a windage tray is.

strips of metal attached to the block and cut so the crank shaft will clear them when the rod ends and weights go around, it prevents the air from creating a hurricane force wind from picking up oil in a mist like condition.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

As I understand it, Oil clings to the rotating assembly and at high RPMs tends to wrap around it, increasing drag and possibly starving the engine of oil. A crank scraper peels the oil away from the crank and returns it to the sump while a windage tray helps keep the oil in the sump where it can be circulated through the oiling system.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Crank scrapers are a nice addition and a 'must do' for any high RPM engine.
On the down side, getting a good scraper fitted into the engine is time consuming, there is a lot of trim, test-fit & trim again work.

The real bummer is when you spend hours getting everything to clear and you bolt down the oil pan, give the engine a test spin and "tink"... something in there is still hitting.

Here is a shot of a scaper installed on a SL6
Click Here for a close-up photo.
DD

I highly recommend the Ishihara-Johnson crank scrapers. I have bought two, and they both fit with minimal trimming with an angle grinder. Well worth the $50 (one side) or $75 (both sides) for these nice pieces. They usually have a set on ebay.

I see no problem with replacing the rail gaskets with scraper parts since permatex will easily seal leaks. I have about 6k street miles on my 64 Dart since installation. I had no oil pressure loss on the road course with my 3/4" dropped and baffled pan, and the one-sided scraper.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Doc is that all you will be putting on this engine- just one side? I see you have provisions for a tray.
Also, do the cast crank engines require different pieces altogether?

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Blair Furlotte
1979 Dodge Aspen 225 "Super Six" 3-speed
Original owner

Cast crank engine use the same parts but the 'fitting' will be a little different seeing that the con rods are thinner.

The engine shown uses a scraper and a windage tray.
I only use one scraper, the one on the cam side. This is to stop windage from coming up from the pan area and going around to the block side of the crank. (based on the direction of crankshaft rotation)
I see little value in placing a scraper on the other side.
DD

OK Doc
Why are the Rods so shiny??? Mine dont look smooth or shiny.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Those con rods are lightened and polished.
DD