Quote:
Quote:
Mike Jeffries.
This is the time of year Mike is doing heads too. 308/324-3576.
DD
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| Head porting and more https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26117 |
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| Author: | MikeY [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Head porting and more |
What does it typically run to have a slant six head ported and worked (parts and labor)? I am looking at: Hard exhaust valve seat inserts installed Oversize intake and exhaust valves Multiangle valve job and good bang for the buck street port job Bronzewall valve guides installed Some chamber polishing/radiusing corners (to reduce the chance of preignition and detonation) Decking That should cover it unless anyone has some other good suggestions. Also, who would you recommend to do the work? If I ever have it done I would like for it to be someone who is very familiar with slants and knows what works and what to look out for. Thanks! |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mike Jeffries. |
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| Author: | rock [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Mikey, done right it should run about... |
Mikey, Done right, including parts, easily $550 to $800, depending on how much you mill the head and how much you port. Worth every penny the day you get it on and stomp that gas! rock '64d100 |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Mike Jeffries.
This is the time of year Mike is doing heads too. 308/324-3576.
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| Author: | Doc [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: Mike Jeffries.
This is the time of year Mike is doing heads too. 308/324-3576. DD |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did most of the porting myself. Never did it before! I want to take it in and have it milled a little more. Bigger valves put in I had a shop in Murfreesboro do the valve job, milling, guides etc. The damned thing sucks oil through the guides! I want to get the engine builder valves and have a guy in Ashland city set the new valves see what is wrong with the guides. Buy the "How to port SB Chevy heads" book and buy the carbides and flapper wheels and have some fun. I enjoy doing it. |
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| Author: | runvs_826 [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did most the work myself, so if Mike is busy I would go ahead and try it yourself. The major thing is to polish the bowls till you can see your smile. Start with 60 and than I had a flapper kinda thing. Than move onto where the guide of the valve comes into the head, and last where it bends. Don't worry about the sides where you put on the manifold just match it to you gasket. The exahust side should be perfect, but overall a good finish is all that matters. 3-angles are "the best bang for your buck" according to Mr. Vizard, also backcuts on bigger valves which I didn't do. But the valves you can get on e-bay that are(1.77/1.44) are awesome for the money. We had problems with the bronze guides he supplied which I didn't followed how he fixed. Last with a bigger cam get some stock 340 springs. |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Polish the chambers with the valves in!!! Don't damage the seats!! |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Use a majic marker to gasket match your ports. Machinist die isn't necessary. |
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