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tire spin?(or not)
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26128		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  jibs1723 [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:35 am ]
Post subject:  tire spin?(or not)
i have a 225 slant six with a 904 tranny. It seems to run well enough. Low end seems pretty bad. I have read about other people being able to spin the tires. My car can barely break one tire lose around a turn when its wet. It there a reason behind this. Any input would be greatly apprieacted.
Author:  66aCUDA [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 6:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Hello and welcome
I think you can tune up to a tire spinner without too much trouble.
It will depend also on tire size and rear end ratio.
Others here will post more on what you need to get there.
Post where you live there may be folks close that can help.
Frank
Author:  gato [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:42 am ]
Post subject:  tinner spinner?
take the time to read lotsa posts on this board. u'll find lots of info, lots of tech wisdom, lots of eager slanters willing to add another to the fray.

i've learned that there's a lot more hotrod slants out there than i could have imagined.
yours could be the next one.

welcome aboard!

D~~~!
Author:  68barracuda [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:47 am ]
Post subject: 
Welcome!

The slant is a eevil beast ye ken laddie - it grabs ye bye the heart....

These engines does have so much power potential it is just not funny

Enjoy :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Author:  Eric Von Zipper [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
Loss of traction isnt a good thing.

The idea is to have the power to weight curve set so you get maxium acceleration

a second gear bark is a good thing, but you need a stick
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Jibs1723,

1. A good tune up is required, see SL6Dan's posts on spark plug type, gap, distributer cap and rotor recommendations.

2. The valve lash needs to be set hot while the engine is running which is always an experience.

3. Once that is done then you can advance the timing more than what the factory books say. Example: My 74 Dart specs and fender sticker call for the timing to be set at 0 degrees at 750 rpm. It was pretty much a slug in the bottom end and pinged alot. I am now running my timing at 16 degrees initial which really wakes up the engine. After recurving the distributor the mechanical advance adds another 16 degrees for 32 degrees total at 2000 rpm with the distributor hose to the vacuum can unplugged. Plug it in and I get another 20 degrees, for a 52 degree total.

4. I removed or unplugged most of the emissions equipment. Once you get back to a basic and stable engine you will have more bottom end punch up to 2000 rpm.

After 2000 rpm rear-end ratio, tire size, small exhaust systems, head flow and carb flow, air cleaner design all begin to take there toll. Now you need to decide what your needs are and take next steps. The guys on this site are very helpful. :D
Author:  dank10fenny [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:

a second gear bark is a good thing, but you need a stick


u would be suprised, we had a caprice at school they did a crazy shift kit on, i would bark every gear.
i mean ya it was a v-8, but i would imagine u could beef up the 904 to do it
Author:  70valiant [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
When I put the 3.91 in mine chirps second every time if I am at more than 1/2 throttle. I do have a shift improver kit in mine though.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
As others have stated, there are many factors that go into the car's low-end performance. But it looks like there are still suggestions in your first thread on the topic, that you haven't yet tried.
Author:  Slant Cecil [ Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
a second gear bark is a good thing, but you need a stick

An auto will bark them if you have a good trans with a Trans-Go TF2 shift kit or TA Cheeta valve body.
Author:  slantfin [ Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:15 am ]
Post subject: 
Also see post called '74 225 pollution stuff in 'engine' section. /6Dan has some good info on emissions systems, and what you may as well leave in place, if in good repair. I agree with his rational approach of assessing existing conditions, before just removing stuff. Saves time and money in the long run. Added benefit: cleaner air.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:57 am ]
Post subject: 
...except that the car in question here is a '64, not equipped with emission controls beyond a PCV system...
Author:  ESP47 [ Sat Dec 08, 2007 4:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Make sure the carb is tuned up as well. I was amazed at how much more power I had when I went from a remanufactured Carter BBD to a NOS Carter BBD. Now I can chirp the tires at 1/2 throttle from the line. Before I had to stomp on it all the way and even then it was iffy whether it would break traction or not. Not that I do that all the time, but its nice to know that you've at least got enough power to spin the wheels if you want :lol:

I had a remanufactured 1bbl Holley 1920 on it before and it wouldn't spin the tires unless it was raining and I was in loose gravel.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well you must have a bad Holley 1920, because on mine 1/2 throttle win spin both of my P235 60's on pavement no problem! Granted at 4000 rpm the carb runs out of flow, but up to 3000 rpm it screams.
On wet pavement it will fish tail and spin in circles if you aren't careful. That is 1/2 throttle on a well tuned 1920 EconoMaster with a #57 jet and a 8 3/4 posi-traction rear end.

It will be interesting to try a Super Six and later on a 4 barrel setup next year!
Author:  emsvitil [ Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
My tires have never spun :(


(unless it was a low traction situation.....)
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