I am finishing up on my 63 Valiant driver and, before winter comes, need to get the defrosters working. There are two hoses hanging down, one on each side, but only one apparent defroster outlet from the heating system. Am I missing a connector?

Tom

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1963 Valiant Signet

There are two connectors...think one of them on the '63 box is at a strange angle. Maybe look a little harder?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That would explain it. I will look again tomorrow.
Thanks

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1963 Valiant Signet

No apparent second outlet. If anyone knows differently for sure, let me know. The service manual is not helpful as it shows a picture of the setup but it is not clear from the picture where the defroster hoses end up.

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1963 Valiant Signet

Thanks, I just wasn't looking hard enough. The second outlet is up high and out of the way. I hooked them both up and now I am getting some air flow. Not as powerful as a modern car but the air is moving. Maybe it will move better when the car is in motion and actually defrost the windows in the winter.

Thanks for your reply.

Tom

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1963 Valiant Signet

One thing that happens over the years to hamper airflow is that the inlet side of the heater core gets clogged up with leaves, pine needles, feathers and other stuff. Checking and cleaning isn't any fun, but can greatly improve airflow. Also be sure the defroster ducts are tightly installed at both ends (duct tape can help) and that there aren't any holes or tears in the ducts.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks,
Is that the process where you have to take the whole heater assembly out? In my car it's an extra hassle because of aftermarket a/c hanging right in front.

Tom

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1963 Valiant Signet

Yeah, it pretty much is such a process, though you may be able to assess some of the condition by removing the blower motor (from under the hood)...I can't recall whether this would open up any of the needed access.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Unfortunately on the Valiant you need to remove the heater assembly to get the blower motor out. It's never easy!
Tom

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1963 Valiant Signet

By now I am an expert in removing and replacing the heater box, having done it three times. The last time only took me 35 minutes. The main problem turned out to be not blockage in the system. Everything was working perfectly but rather the heater blower motor connections resulted in the motor going the wrong way even though red was to positive and black to ground. Reversing this fixed the problem. Only problem now is that it is not really hot enough, only warm. The thermostat holds steady at 180 degrees according to after market gauge. Manual says one possible problem is "airbound" heater system with the solution being to "bleed" the heater system. What does this involve?

Also, best source for a turn signal cam?

Thanks,
Tom

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1963 Valiant Signet

Oops, yeah, a blower motor running backwards will definitely interfere with heater performance! It's not terribly likely your low heat output is due to air lock — the design of the A-body system is such that the core doesn't generally tend to trap air, as can happen in some other systems. Nevertheless, it's worth a shot: Warm the engine to full operating temperature, put the car at as high of a nose-up angle as you safely can, and run the engine at a fast idle for a couple of minutes.

You'll want to check carefully to make sure the hot/cold blend door is moving all the way to the "hot" position (and that any sealing foam on the door is in good shape) with the temperature control knob in its own "hot" position. If not, adjust the cable and/or fix whatever other problem prevents the door moving all the way to the hot-air position. Also check carefully that all the heater-to-firewall seals are intact and leak-free. Even a small cold-air leak can overwhelm the heater.

I suspect, though, that you might be removing the heater again to install a new heater core.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Last time I took it apart, I was armed with a new heater core from NAPA. However the tubes that go out into the engine compartment were bent at the wrong angle and wouldn't go in. I should have checked the operation of the old core instead of just looking at it (it seemed fine on the outside!!)

The heater door works fine. Doesn't that get fed by cold air from the outside coming in through the cowel openings? I am not sure what cold air leaks could be overwhelming the system. However, I am pretty sure you are right and I need to take it apart just one more time and install a new core, or have the old one cleaned out at a minimum.

Tom

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1963 Valiant Signet

You should be able to get a new (correct) core, but if not, a competent radiator shop can re-core yours. Check for air leaks everywhere the heater box connects to the sheetmetal: At the blower motor interface, at the left and right underdash vent boxes (up at the top there's a foam doughnut that can go away over the years), also make sure all the pass-throughs are well sealed for the throttle linkage, speedo cable, wires, etc.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Oh, you mean if cold air is leaking directly into the cabin! That is not happening. I replaced all of the worn out foams with new when I did the heater box. The air coming out of the heater is warm only. You are almost certainly right that it is the heater core. I was just hoping there might be something else. I should have been more patient when I had it out and brought it to a radiator shop.

Any idea where to buy a turn signal cam?

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1963 Valiant Signet

You can buy a cheaply-made turn signal cam from the parts store, but if you want to do the job right (and not have to do it again for a long time), see this post.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.