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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 3:43 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:31 pm
Posts: 67
Location: Huntington, NY
Car Model:
Guys,

Sorry to post this here, but I need a rear shock mount plate for a '65 Valiant, 7.25" rear end. I need the driver's side. I need it kind of immediately, like by Monday. The car is on the lift as I write.

I snapped the stud clean off while performing a r+r.

Or, while I'm asking does anyone have any suggestions on how to remedy this situation? Seems like I'm gonna hafta weld - like cut the stud off, drill the plate and weld something appropriate on in it's place.

Or not. I'd rather not replace the whole thing - 43-year-old u bolts are guaranteed to snap.

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks,

Greg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:25 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I have one. It's not real cherry but it should be functional. If you don't find one closer it's yours for the cost of shipping.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject: broken stud
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:30 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Oct 25, 2003 12:41 am
Posts: 844
Location: wichita ks
Car Model:
I read on this site that in the self help section you can get a shock stud to replace the end -- of the one you just broke. Dennis Schumers posted it on here recently. Lawrence


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:51 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:31 pm
Posts: 67
Location: Huntington, NY
Car Model:
'Nuther question -

Can anyone inform me whether the studs are welded to the plates or pressed in?

There is a circular outline of what looks to be the back of the stud on the opposite side of the plate. If they are in fact pressed in, then surely I can just bang out the broken one and snag a replacement from one of the Mopar parts houses... they're like $15.00.

Only difference I can see in the replacements is they have a nut on either side so they bolt on to the plate. Would these handle the torsional loads that go through the studs? They look pretty beefy.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:46 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
All that I've seen are welded in.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 3:50 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14564
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
All you need to do is drill it out and bolt in a replacement. You can find them in the 'HELP' section at Pep Boys or Vatozone. :D

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 5:22 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:31 pm
Posts: 67
Location: Huntington, NY
Car Model:
Replacement on the way courtesy of dakight!

Can't wait to wrestle with those U-bolts. I'm gonna hafta empty an entire can of penetrating oil on those things. :(

Greg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:21 am 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
Car Model:
U-bolts shouldn't be a challenge to find replacements locally - I didn't bother with oil on my original ones when replacing them and went directly to the cutting disc. Try those truck lifting/lowering places.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:25 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I've never had any problem with the ubolts. I attack them first with a wire brush to get hem as clean as possible then soak them well with penetrant. I use an air operated impact wrench and they spin right off. The nuts get really hot though; you will want to let them lie for a few minutes to cool off. A coventional ratchet will also do the job but will be a lot more work.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 4:34 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2916
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
Yeah, but them Az cars don't rust and corrode like what we have in the Rust Belt... I don't see NY being any more rust free than IL. is....
you might have to just resort to the torch it will save the crash between the funny bone and whatever's around :twisted: :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:02 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
When I swapped my 7.25 I had to reuse the U bolts. I did all the cleaning with a wire brush and penetrating oil, and a little heat. I had to reuse them, it was a slow process of getting them off. I had to loosen the nut like 1 turn then back it up a half. Real slow process. Even then, out of 2 sets (j-yard rear + the one in the car) I barely had 1 set to bolt everything back together with.

It can be done, but it ain't easy to save U bolts.

Good Luck

TopHat


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 3:57 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
You should also be able to chase the threads with a die. And if push comes to shove, cut the nuts off and save the ubolts. However, if replacements are easy to find, it's probably not worth the trouble.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 7:03 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
When I put the 8.8 in the Valaint I got 4 new U bolts with nuts for less than $20...try Rock Auto....I get mine from our local industrial supply place......custom made in 2 days.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 2:39 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:31 pm
Posts: 67
Location: Huntington, NY
Car Model:
Success! The U-bolts were a piece of cake.

I absolutely soaked them with WD40 for 2 days. I used an impact gun on a lower setting and pulsed it so as to not hammer the nuts too hard. :wink: They slid off like butter.

I cleaned up the U-bolt threads with a wire wheel and re-installed them. The whole thing was no problem. Again, thanks to dakight for the replacement shock plate.

Seriously though, like many things on my car, those U-bolts probably haven't been touched in 42 years.

Greg


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