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Race car starter wiring diagrahm?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26372		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Kidd [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:01 am ]
Post subject:  Race car starter wiring diagrahm?
Hello all.....well I am putting together a 62 Valiant drag car, w/ a 6 and auto. I was wanting to make it a toggle power on/off, and a pushbutton starter. Does anyone here know how to wire the engine to start and run this way? I am just now getting ready to get my moter mounts figured out w/ a doner engine, and thought it would be great to get it to move under its own power before the real engine goes into it. Any suggestions or help is appreciated!! Thanks.
Andrew
Author:  Joshie225 [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:24 am ]
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You need the big cable from the battery to the starter and if you put 12V to the small starter terminal the engine will crank. That's the starter circuit. Big heavy battery cable and a pushbutton between the battery and the starter solenoid.

If the engine turns and you have fuel, compression and spark at the right time it will run. Put a toggle switch between the battery and the ballast resistor. The other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil + terminal and the coil negative terminal goes to the point distributor.

I would protect the starter solenoid circuit with a 20 amp fuse and the ignition circuit with a 10 amp fuse.

You will have no neutral safety switch so be careful! If you want the neutral safety switch to work you need to use the starter relay.
Author:  Kidd [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:45 am ]
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Thanks Josh......am glad to have the help!! Got to try and get the car together for next season.
Andrew
Author:  Joshie225 [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:54 am ]
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The only slant car I own is my '67 so you'll see it again in '08. Plans are to warm up the spare motor and drop it in with an automatic so I can run more consistently and a bit quicker. We'll have to see if I can scrape together enough money to do it or if I keep running the stock motor and 3-speed.
Author:  GTS225 [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 12:58 pm ]
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Quote:
I would protect the starter solenoid circuit with a 20 amp fuse and the ignition circuit with a 10 amp fuse.
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Good advice.....fuse everything.....it's a small price to pay for electrical insurance.
Quote:
You will have no neutral safety switch so be careful! If you want the neutral safety switch to work you need to use the starter relay.
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Not "if he wants", but he will want a neutral safety switch in the system. Both NHRA and IHRA require one, and a good tech inspector will make darn sure it works correctly. It does not have to be the factory trans-mounted switch. It can be a shifter-mounted one, and most decent aftermarket shifters do have the capability, if not the switch already there.

Roger
Author:  slantzilla [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
I would protect the starter solenoid circuit with a 20 amp fuse and the ignition circuit with a 10 amp fuse.
**************************************************
Good advice.....fuse everything.....it's a small price to pay for electrical insurance.
Quote:
You will have no neutral safety switch so be careful! If you want the neutral safety switch to work you need to use the starter relay.
********************************************************
Not "if he wants", but he will want a neutral safety switch in the system. Both NHRA and IHRA require one, and a good tech inspector will make darn sure it works correctly. It does not have to be the factory trans-mounted switch. It can be a shifter-mounted one, and most decent aftermarket shifters do have the capability, if not the switch already there.

Roger
You will be better off running the relay anyway. It will be much easier on the switch than trying to trigger the solenoid on the starter.

Use a relay for the '67 and up A-body and a '69 and up neutral switch and you're good to go. :D
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
and a '69 and up neutral switch and you're good to go. :D
The neutral safety swith is dependent on the year of the valve body. A 69 switch will not work with a 62 valve body.
Author:  slantzilla [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:54 pm ]
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Quote:
Quote:
and a '69 and up neutral switch and you're good to go. :D
The neutral safety swith is dependent on the year of the valve body. A 69 switch will not work with a 62 valve body.
IIRC, the neutral part will. The reverse lights part will not. :D
Author:  dakight [ Tue Dec 25, 2007 3:45 am ]
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On a 62 the reverse lights are switched in the pushbutton gear selector.
Author:  Sam Powell [ Tue Dec 25, 2007 5:03 am ]
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Collectively, this group knows pretty much EVERYTHING. :wink: I am always amazed at the knowledge that flows out of the slantsix forum. If you guys weren't so good I wouldn't ask so many stupid questions. :lol:

Sam
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Dec 25, 2007 5:22 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
IIRC, the neutral part will. The reverse lights part will not. :D
I will have to check that out. If I remember corectly there is even a difference in the switch between 1964 and older, and 1965. Both of these switches are single wire, neutral safety only. I'll see if I can get time to look today.
Quote:
On a 62 the reverse lights are switched in the pushbutton gear selector.
The backup light switch did not incorporate into the neutral safety switch, until after 1966.
Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Dec 25, 2007 5:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:

The backup light switch did not incorporate into the neutral safety switch, until after 1966.
I believe the 3 prong switch appeared in 1968 or 9. I helped a guy part out a '67 Dart a few years ago and he got really pi$$ed when I cut the 1 wire to the neutral switch off. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:18 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:

The backup light switch did not incorporate into the neutral safety switch, until after 1966.
I believe the 3 prong switch appeared in 1968 or 9. I helped a guy part out a '67 Dart a few years ago and he got really pi$$ed when I cut the 1 wire to the neutral switch off. :lol: :lol: :lol:
I'm not sure what year they started with the 3 wire neutral safety/backup light switch. However, I think you are partly right, about being able to use it on the earlier trans. I just compared the three different switches, and valve body detent levers (this is what pushes on the switch). It looks like the three wire switch can be used on the 65 and newer trans, with the single wire switch, for neutral safety switch operation, only. The end of the switch, inside the trans is the same configuration. It absolutly will NOT work on the 64 and older pushbutton trans. Any 65 and later switch is too long, and will actually jam the shift detent lever.
So the answer for Kidd, is: if you are using the 62 PB trans, you must use the neutral safety switch for a 60 to 64 trans. If you do not have good one, TF Patty has them.
Author:  slantzilla [ Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:04 am ]
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:D :D :D :D
Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:43 am ]
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69 was first year for the 3-prong rev/neutral switch.

Lou
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