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Carb and some more...?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26375		 Page 1 of 4
Author:  Olds [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 11:36 am ]
Post subject:  Carb and some more...?
Hi there. I`am new here. We bought Dodge Ram B250 bus for our team to tow trailer with my race car (Dodge Charger) and all equipment. So the bus is powered by slant six 225cid but the carb is totally wrong there. Fact is I never saw so tiny carb on car/bus. It`s like motocycle carb :)
As I know there have to be 2 barrel carb? Right now there stands one barrel carb and it`s not even USA carb...someone just replaced it with some kind of Germany carb. It`s not Weber carb also as I checked...Question is where I can have right size carb there? As I mentioned then this bus is towing trailer.
Second question is about timing and ignition. I have big yellow Accel coil and Mopar orange ECU box in garage. Is it smart to use them? I just finished cilinder head rebuild (new valves, new springs and so on)cause two valves were leaking. So I need to set up valve lashes also...what`s the right gap on exhaust and intake valve? Also what`s timing degrees?
Also - is there any aftermarket intakes, headers and performance stuff avaible? Didnt found almost anything from summitracing...

Thanks and happy holidays!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 12:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Welcome on the board! I think you are our first member from Estonia. Do you know what year your B250 is? If not, tell us the vehicle number and we can figure out how your van was originally equipped. Depending on the year, it might've been equipped with a 1bbl or a 2bbl carburetor, but it sounds like someone installed a non-original carburetor, quite likely much smaller than the original. Can you show us some pictures?

The orange box is OK, not great. The Accel coil is fine. The biggest advantage of those is that you have them in hand. Are they worth using? Well, again, what are you starting with?

See the valve adjustment procedure for specs and procedure.

Buy the factory service manual for your van, see this post.

Timing: Depends on year and original equipment.

There are lots of aftermarket parts available for the slant-6. You might want to look into Dutra Duals rather than headers.
Author:  Olds [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Welcome on the board! I think you are our first member from Estonia. Do you know what year your B250 is? If not, tell us the vehicle number and we can figure out how your van was originally equipped. Depending on the year, it might've been equipped with a 1bbl or a 2bbl carburetor, but it sounds like someone installed a non-original carburetor, quite likely much smaller than the original. Can you show us some pictures?

The orange box is OK, not great. The Accel coil is fine. The biggest advantage of those is that you have them in hand. Are they worth using? Well, again, what are you starting with?

See the valve adjustment procedure for specs and procedure.

Buy the factory service manual for your van, see this post.

Timing: Depends on year and original equipment.

There are lots of aftermarket parts available for the slant-6. You might want to look into Dutra Duals rather than headers.
Thanks SlantSixDan! It`s nice to be first Estonian here :)
I trie to get VIN code by tomorrow. Also I trie to take some pics tomorrow and post. Really I dont know what crap there are top of the intake manifold...some Germany oldschool carb...who knows. But fact is that I need good carb there and have to get this tiny motor running well. I really cant imagine how this tiny motor can pull this bus and tow trailer with race car :) We will see
About this factory service manual. Need to order one of those I think cause Chilton, Haynes etc manuals...I think there are not much what can help me. I read lot`s of manuals and to be honest, there are 20...30% useful stuff;) Only new thing for me is slant six motor cause all US cars what I had so far and Charger what I have right now is mostly powered by high performance V8 motors. Also almost whole electric (wires, fuses and so on)is new, custom made stainless steal dashboard as well ;)
About this Accel coil and yello ECU- yes they work. I used them before on my Charger but now I have FBO Systems ignition there so I can use them on bus now.
One more question...how is possible to put 4 barrel carb on that stock intake? Do it need some special adapter? Iam askeing cause I have one 4 barrel 600cfm working Holley on garage. Maybe can use it BUT for me seems that 600cfm is way big for this motor?
Author:  Zipper [ Mon Dec 24, 2007 11:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't think there is a plate to place a 4 barrel onto a single, but, depending on year, it may have the Super Six 2 barrel and some one downgraded, but it dosn't sound that way. You can get 4 barrel intakes from Offenhause and Clifford, and as I said, later years came with a 2 barrel SuperSix stock.

The engine may look little, but it can pack a punch... once you free if of its shackles
Author:  Olds [ Mon Dec 31, 2007 12:22 am ]
Post subject: 
Hi again. Question about valve lash...I just rebuild and bolted on cilinder head; checked all wires and hoses and tried to fire up motor. Sad, tried with choke on and off...quite nothing, almost fired up. So I unluged all spark plugs and they were wet (gasoline). I repeated all this 3 times and every time it floated motor over. don't know is the problem this unknown carb or what. I put also new rotor, cap, wires, plugs. Also wanted to check out ignition degree but didn't get motor working well enough. Only time when I got motor running somehow it needs to pump with gaspedal several times and playing with choke. But then motor seems to work with 3..4 cilinders.
Question is that how much have to be set valve lash when motor is cold? Maybe the valve lashes are so wrong that it haggle overfloat?
Any suggestions, thanks?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:34 am ]
Post subject: 
Set the lash cold to 0.015" (intake) 0.025" (exhaust).

Got a VIN for us?
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:45 am ]
Post subject: 
I would try for a good two barrel carb setup for that rig. The two barrels have a lot more torque compaired to that one barrel and the power curve is great for something thta will be pulling a lot of weight and need to me smooth. A 4 barrel may give more power, but IMHO not in the way needed. Once you get that one barrel carb off there I thing you will feel there is plenty of power/torque to get the job done, infact it will probably surprize you.


Jess
Author:  Olds [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:17 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I would try for a good two barrel carb setup for that rig. The two barrels have a lot more torque compaired to that one barrel and the power curve is great for something thta will be pulling a lot of weight and need to me smooth. A 4 barrel may give more power, but IMHO not in the way needed. Once you get that one barrel carb off there I thing you will feel there is plenty of power/torque to get the job done, infact it will probably surprize you.


Jess
Thanks guys! I trie to set valve lash and upgrade ignition system a bit. Sorry about VIN code cause dashboard is custom made and there are no VIN code plate anymore. The fact is that bus is end of `70 years but there stand newer bus grille and headlights. The bus documents are from different bus so VIN code is not correct :roll:
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Try looking for a data label on the driver's door frame.
Author:  Olds [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:58 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Try looking for a data label on the driver's door frame.
Ok, I almost got the engine running. We set valve lash and set ignition...little test drive...no power. We tried set timing 7 degrees and 10 degrees initial but nothing happened. Then we noticed that contacts in distributor is burned and condenser may also be broken. Do those (contacts and condenser) parts may haggle this that in garage motor works almost well, when motor is warm then respond quite well and starts very well but in test drive there is no power at all...and also no backfire to carb or to exhaust...
Also how big must be contact correct gap?
And ofcorse I need to buy correct carb. Do this one may work http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku ?

best regards
Georg
Author:  gato [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:20 am ]
Post subject:  maybe
it looks like the rite model. it may be of a more recent vintage than u need.the earlier versions didn't have that cable pigtail on them.
but i'd guess that would bolt rite up to a chrysler slant 6 2bbl manifold.

D~~~!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
how big must be contact correct gap?
0.5mm
Quote:
I need to buy correct carb. Do this one may work
Yes, the Holley II #64-1190 will work on the factory 2-barrel intake manifold, if that's what you have. The photo shown is incorrect (it shows a different, later model of the carburetor that would not work on your application), but the part number is correct.
Author:  Olds [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
how big must be contact correct gap?
0.5mm
Quote:
I need to buy correct carb. Do this one may work
Yes, the Holley II #64-1190 will work on the factory 2-barrel intake manifold, if that's what you have. The photo shown is incorrect (it shows a different, later model of the carburetor that would not work on your application), but the part number is correct.
You even calculated inches to meter :) Thanks guys!
Author:  Olds [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:23 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
how big must be contact correct gap?
0.5mm
Quote:
I need to buy correct carb. Do this one may work
Yes, the Holley II #64-1190 will work on the factory 2-barrel intake manifold, if that's what you have. The photo shown is incorrect (it shows a different, later model of the carburetor that would not work on your application), but the part number is correct.
Do Holley 64-1590 may work also?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:21 am ]
Post subject: 
Yes, 64-1590 will work.
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