Well, I like doing some how to do threads, but this one is going to be a little simpler. The local 8 3/4 with nice axles, 3.23 gears, and a posi was only $2000 what a steal! So we found an alternative, I know that it was posted about Ford axles before and did my own reading. We did some measuring and talked to local junkyards. The 8.8 are reknown by Ford enuthasist as a good replacements for 9in as they are plentiful and can transfer power more efficently from the crank to the rear wheels. Like any good thing there is drawbacks, the axles are the racers for the bearings and when worn need entire replacement (Moser). The clutch packs are known for going fast when the oil gets dirty. So with a few drawbacks they meaure very closely to the old A-bodies and are $250 at the local junkyard, we got a winner.
The 7.5 is a weaker axle and can only handle some 200hp, and more commonly came with drums, the advantage is they are more common in a Ranger. Why is this important? Well the Ranger technically is closer in overall width that those availble in the Explorers. So if you can find an 8.8 out of a Ranger it will be a tad bit narrower, but I stole one out of an Explorer with 3.73 gears and could've gotton one with a posi (their was confusion, but got the newest year).
So assuming you can get some wheels with good backspacing and like a meaner look, the Explorers will work fine. Not entireling knowing this I bit the bullet and started cutting. The spring perches needed to be widened out. Since the diff is off center to measure off this would be a tad dangerous. So I did some math and was able to measure from the hubs in and be very accurate.
Next, was to check the inside and flush in some new oil, the 8.8 (and I'm sure any rear) will destruct very fast will dirt in the gears. I cut off the sway bar perches as practice for the spring perches and painted it nicely black.
So even with the wider rear is still looks great with my new wheels, I personally think it gives it a meaner look.
The brake lines were very simple to connect, the Ford's rubber end connects to the hard line. All I had to do was move the hard line closer to the axle, and connected the old bracket to my sway bar system. To connect the driveline to the Ford rear you need a spicer 2-2-19XX I'll repost later, also I had to shorten my driveline 1.25 inches.
