well i broke down and got the worthless haynes book, it was actually kinda helpfull. but right now i am trying to get the *&%$! bolts to come loose. i did also pick up a pitman puller so that's cool. but how the hell do i get those 3 bolts loose.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

PB Blaster, a six point socket, and a long breaker bar. Don't give up. I was always afraid of setting my car on fire, as most of that old grease is probably flamable, so I don;t recommend a blow torch, although that would help, if you don;t burn down your car in the process. You can also buy an electric impact wrench. There is a type of impact wrench that you hit with a hammer. You will find these in motorcycle shops often. That will help for sure.

Sam

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i used a a 1/2 can of wd 40, a long pice of 3/4 steel cast pipe and a socket wrench to get them loose, then a hammer, pipe and a pitman puller to free the box, but now i need to get it free from the steeringt colom, i did remove the metal bar from the thingy and i can almost get it off but not quite.

any advice

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

The little metal bar I assume is the roll pin from the steering coupler?

If you couldn't compress the steering coupler enough to get it off the box when the gear box was bolted to the K-member (typical) you'll have to take the column loose inside the car.

I'm going to be doing this same job soon enough to turn my 24:1 box into a 20:1.

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Joshua

yeah the roll pin is the metal thingy. hopefully tomorrow i can get the damn steering coupler to push back just another 1/4 or so more so i can get the box free. i upgraded to the 20.1 and i hope i notice a huge diff.
anything will be better than that old sloppy box.

mostly the trouble was getting the 3 bolts free that hold it to the frame, then the damn pitman arm was a *&^$! finally i got it free with out any dammage to the arm or car, i got pretty banged up tho.

i was so filthy my wife wasn't gonna let me into the house, i also had to do this on the street because i have a old long dirt driveway that is mud and my jack kept on slipping or digging into the ground.

so tomorrow i am gonna pick up my new box and try to get it in.
i also have a nice cd/mp3/usb/am/fm deck, speakers,heater core and heater valve arriving tomorrow. the 18 thru 20th is shocks,spedo cable,ingintion switch,tires and wheels and what ever else my brother finds wrong with it

and i guess after that its the interior.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

I hope you have jack stands. If not, I hope your wife applies the same logic to saving your life as she applied to saving the house, and makes you use them. Don't do this while the car is on a jack. Jack stands are not that expensive. It sounds as though you have a neat project going. Just stay alive.

Sam

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Yeah, what he said! You can get jack stands at Harbor Freight that are more than adequate for your needs and for not much more than the gas you'll use going to get them. GI Joes will also have them if that's closer.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

yes i have a new set of jack stands

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

Just for future reference, WD40 is not a penatrant, it is a lubricant/cleaner type of product. The PB blaster that Sam mentioned works good.

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

Have you bought a factory service manual yet? If not, you still need it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

hey thanks to all of you for all the great replys!

all i have to do is attach the pitman arm and limp it down to the firestone shop for alignment. got my heater core/heater valve, new deck and speakers today!

i did have to pull the wheel and it was pretty easy with the proper tools

buit i am soaked greasy and cold so i am gonna warm up for a bit before crawling under the car and getting soaked on wet pavement.

here is some picts:

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project

Aint gonna happen. You have to go inside the car and loosen (not remove) the nuts holding the steering column in place so that you can slide the whole column toward the interior of the car. MARK the position of the column before you loosen it so you can put it back in the right spot.


And by the way- you've got it EASY. Try getting a power-steering box out of a big-block B-body with HiPo exhaust manifolds dang near wrapped around it... That's an operation that will let you exercise ALL the cusswords in your vocabulary. Trust me, I know whereof I speak About the only thing worse would be a big-block A-body, and in that case you'd have to pull the manifold.

Just trying to cheer ya up a bit...

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I took a short cut when I did mine.
I used the factory extension that was used on vans. No need to change the shaft.

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Slant Cecil

Or you could try a right hand drive spec '62 Valiant - box mounts to the chassis rail tucked way down the 'tight' side of the slant, not a lot of room to get in there to do anything! Even the pipes for the remote filter get in the way (Australian slants used a remote filter since the steering box sits where the oil filter is meant to be!)

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SV-1 "RoadToad"
VC/AP5 "Plymouth TurboJet" nostalgia dragster ute project
AP5 Regal sedan parts car (late Aus spec - RHD wipers)
AP5 sedan parts car (early USA spec - LHD wipers)
Kawasaki GPZ750
(and no more Fiats - ever!)

Looks like you did OK. I don;t blame you for not wanting to crawl under the car in that weather. Is it cold too? Why are there so many stearing gear boxes in the photo? And a pile of torsion bars too?

Sam

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