I'm trying to get the differential case out of my 1975 model 7 1/4 so I can swap the 2.76s for some 3.23s. Anyone know the size of the hex in the carrier bearing adjusters? I need to make a tool and it's kinda hard to measure the hex when it's 2 feet or so down a 2" tube. I think it's 1.5", but would like to confirm this. I do know it's bigger than 1.4" as a 1.25" hex torsion bar just spins.

My '66 Dart and Coronet service manual has instructions for the older 7 1/4 which used shims for carrier bearing preload rather than the threaded adjusters of my newer axle so I'm short on directions for this vintage axle. Anyone able to tell me how to set the carrier bearing preload?

At least I don't need a case spreader for this model.

Thanks!

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Joshua

Someone told me that a C-body torsion bar will work but I haven't tried it and I don't have a C-body torsion bar anyway. The actual tool is about $50.00 so I'm really interested in the answer to this as well. It would be really easy to weld or pin a bolt into a length pf pipe, probably cheaper too.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I was also told a Full size car torsion bar will work, but sinse I didn't have one, I welded a large nut onto the end of a broken "A" body bar. When I get out to the shop, this morning, I will measure the size of the nut.

PS: I have never seen a 7 1/4 rear with carrier shims, only the adjusters.

Update= 1 3/8 hex

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Foggy memories.....

I remember being worried about this when I put 3.23 gears in my 74 housng.....but I think they were so close that I just used a long punch to snug them up.....or I adjusted by hand...then tried a fit....and adjusted again.

All in all I never had to use the tool.....I think.


It may be I used a big nut...1 3/8 socket and many extensions..

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

The C-barge torsion bars are about 1.4" hex so I believe 1.375" would work fine. Thanks Charlie!

OK, I'm going to weld up the end of an old torsion bar for my tool.

If anyone has a later FSM with the carrier bearing adjustment procedure I'd love to have it. Since this is my first ring and pinion job I'm also curious to know how important is the pinion depth setting tool? I can get a relative measurement with a depth micrometer. I guess that will give me a place to start.

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Joshua

I found the procedures for working on the 7 1/1 and 8 1/4 axles!

http://www.dippy.org/svcman/sm03a.html

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Joshua

This gear swap is killing me. I cannot get the yoke to go on the 3.23 pinion. I made a tool to hold the pinion in the housing and have been beating on the yoke (with a block of wood between the yoke and 5 lb hammer) and it won't go on. I pulled the threads from the grade 8 pinion nut trying to get the impact to pull it together. I've tried multiple positions (clocking) between the pinion and yoke, but no joy.

I'm now ready to spend the $300 it will cost to have my C-body 8 3/4 narrowed and D100 axles shortened. Then I'll be able to use any of my 3rd members. I have 2.76, 2.94. 3.23 and 4.10 all in their own cases ready to go.

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Joshua

You got a 7.25 2.76 axle???????
your 3.23 will not work in that axle, as a mater of fact
nothing will work in that axle but a 2.76 or a gear set
lower than 2.94...
the brake point on gears sets for the 7.25 axle is 2.94's
and larger numbers ===i.e. 3.23,, 3.55 ect......

As far as I know, no one sells or makes a conversion
to use the larger number gears in that axle housing....

Sorry didn't see this sooner.....

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

Oh! I'd better go check mine then. It might have have a 2.94 but 2.76 sticks in my feeble brain somehow. I would be very unhappy to spend $300 on a gearset I can't use!

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I would try cleaning the splines with a wire wheel, as well as trying to get a chamfer on the inside edge of the yoke. Then take a real close look at it. If there is an oxide coating on the pinion shaft that might be the problem. Use white grease on the splines, not gear oil to assemble it.

It must be snagging somewhere, even a small bur can be a real problem. The yoke didn't get dropped or anything like that did it?

Everything I have ever seen states that a 2.76 carrier will fit the 3 series gears. I have not heard of any odd variations. I just got a sure grip that had a 2.76 gear set on it and the carrier even has a "3" on it. Besides this would have nothing to do with the yoke not fitting.

Aftermarket gears?

I think the gear carrier difference applies to the 8 1/4 units and not the 7 1/4.

What happened to the yoke from the 3.23 assembly or are these new gears? You may want to do a "spline count" and some measurements to be sure the spline's major & root diameters are OK.
DD

The spline count is right. The 3.23s are used and I have no idea where the original yoke is. These gears went from the Erickson's to Ceej and then to me. Everything is clean and looks good. I've just had enough of fooling with this weak, open differential 7 1/4. 3/8" carrier bearing cap bolts!? It's like a bad joke.

I'm going to invest part of my tax refund in narrowing my spare 8 3/4 so future gear swaps will be a relative cake walk. Since the car is staying with a manual transmission and will only be gaining horsepower and traction the 7 1/4 likely wouldn't last long anyway.

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Joshua

That "break point" thing has to do with the carrier, not the whole housing.
As someone mentioned the 8-1/4, that is 2.71 and higher numerically/ 2.45 and down. I don't know what taht would be on a 7-1/2. Probably Charrlie S? I know that he messes with the 7-1/4s This would have nothing to do with a yoke not wanting to go onto a pinion, though.
As far as the $300 to shorten a housing and axles? Ive never priced anything like that but considering that I have been quoted $350/$400 by about 4 different places,just to set up a ring and pinion in an 8-1/4, I have all the brand new gears, bearings and even a new SG!
And thats with me carrying just the rear end and parts into the place, they don't even need to take up a stall for the whole car at that!

I just when't though this with a 7.25, had a 73 axle with the adjustable
axle (not the shimed axle).
Since somewere in it's life the axle had taken a side impact and the
driver side adjuster was shot, grabed a 2.76 early(mid 60s) shimed axle from a friend
put it under the car, got every thing swaped over, tried to set the
old my 3.23 pinion with my 3.23 carrier,
and get the carrier to lash, didn't, not even close.
that is when I found out that the axle housings were differant.....
Ended up getting anouther axle, a 67 shimed axle that had a 3.23 ( set in poor shape)
and swapped in my set, when't in perfect......
the carrier is the same, the pinion size is enough differant that
the case needs to be differant, least that is what I was told.....

Randy has a list of axles as new replacements...
the 2.76 axle and higher, or the standard axle....
http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList.asp ... fferential

_________________
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

Hi,

is 1 3/8" the outside measurement of the nut or is it the nut size?
(if it is the nut size then the outside diameter of the nut is much bigger than 1 3/8").