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Looking for Recommendations on new Goodies (Pics included)
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Author:  65deuce [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Looking for Recommendations on new Goodies (Pics included)
Well as you can see I've got a new intake and headers all in one spot, so that means the Dart is going under the knife soon.

The ebay"Clifford" headers just came back from the ceramic coater. I'm pretty happy with the work. The intake was also in his care for media-blasting.
I'm very excited to jump in, but I have a couple questions:
Don't be shy I'd love (need) some input.

How can I get a carb plate / manifold gasket?
What about the difference in the header flange thickness vs. the intake?
Has anyone thought of milling the intake to match the headers? The
headers have the same thickness as a supersix intake I have, the Offy
is thicker than both.
What CFM carb? 390 or 600 (Mild street build 9.0/Comp 264s/headers)
What about exhaust ...duals out back, X-pipe, h pipe, or no crossover? A
y-pipe to a single out?
What muffler(s)
Pipe size?
Has anyone adapted the stock throttle cable and kickdown to work? I
looked for an Offy because it does have the mount points.
Is the mini-starter beneficial for the header fitment?

Image
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Author:  runvs_826 [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
What other mods are you doing besides the intake and headers???? If those are it, than 390cfm should be enough (maybe the carb guys can finish that thought).
If you have the engine apart spend some time on the head to get some power gains, even a little will help. The hard thing with saying this is I'm not sure what expirence or tools one's have. So if you have a die grinder spend some time polishing the bowls and matching your intake - gasket- port. Those are some easy things you could do, that doesn't cost much.
I never had a cam swap with the 2 barrel, but with me efi I wish I had a lot more cam. Every book I've read runs somewhere along 270 duration and .44-.50 lift for a streetable engine. I run 270/..44 cause I thought it was the orginal hyperpak specs, it rocks!
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I spent about 2 hours (max) on that and it should greatly help with the swirl of the fuel coming in. The reason I metion this is it is real easy basic stuff, major porting and polishing will have to be left to the pros as they have a flowbench. I wouldn't have spent the money on larger valves with out doing what I did above and matching the intake and head. Just some ideas, good luck with your build! If all else fails when I finish the exhaust to perfection I plan on selling that head.
Author:  65deuce [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Great looking chamber work runvs.
Cam and compression are my primary upgrades, I also use an MSD ignition.

The engine is actually together and running so for no I think the head will stay on though.
Author:  6shotvanner [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 7:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm running some of the same parts,clifford,comp etc.500 edy always gets my vote for carb as I'm more into plug n play and it works gooood rite outa the box.Mines in a van and I did have install clearance problem with starter.I had eveything on and torqued when starter was ready from rebuilder,nope,untorqued so starter would clear then retorqued.Don't know if ministarter would make a differance or if my starter is maybe longer then others? Just grab some gasket material and make that adapt plate work.It will wiiinnnnd up 8) Have fun :wink:
Author:  runvs_826 [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Gotcha about the exterior upgrades, the MSD should really help!
Author:  zedpapa [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:04 am ]
Post subject: 
i am running the same setup as you right now.

i had some problems getting the headers to seal, esp. #4. i ended up cutting the flange above the manifolds to allow the the tube to move a little bit. no leaks so far.

i have a holley 390(see below) and it works pretty good. i still need to fine tune it. if you're going to be doing mostly street driving, then the 390 should be plently.

i had to get a aftermarket throttle cable because i turned the carb so the primaries are toward the left fender. i have a manual tranny, so as far as kickdown goes, i know people have been able to convert to a cable, but beyond that , i don't know.

as for exhaust, i had my headers go to a y-pipe just as they get to the firewall. from there, it goes to 2.5" pipe to a flowmaster and exits in the stock location. sounds great nice and mellow until you get on it. a lot of people mistake it for a V8 when it's idling.

i use the stock starter and it can be taken in and out with the headers in place. it takes a little finesse and coaxing, but it comes out. a mini-starter would make things a lot easier.

zedpapa
Author:  65deuce [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Zed how did you overcome the difference in the manifold flange thickness?
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Zed how did you overcome the difference in the manifold flange thickness?
I never had a problem with thickness. I see you're in Florida. What part? If you are close enough, you are welcome to come and look at mine, and do a little bench racing.
Author:  6shotvanner [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
65,Same here no problems with flanges.I got mine new and clifford gave me some story about grinding down some washers and oveling out the holes.Just used the stock triangle washers with all new studs,wire lock washers and new nuts.I did torque them to what ever clifford said(don't have that handy) warmed it up,cooled down and double check the torque.I did play with the triangles abit to make sure they were bridging the gap as equally as possible,you know,rotate abit.Now I did have the clifford gasket which is kinda thick and it's not metal so there is some squish there.Maybe one of those nice grafite gaskets would work here?
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Remflex.com
Try the Remflex brand graphite gaskets. They are nice and thick.
I just put a set on my Dart. They are great!


PN RF6008 -- Mopar 225ci ('60-'83) 1/set comes with the stove gasket too.
Author:  gato [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:30 pm ]
Post subject:  starters sizes
my /6 wears a starter for a 318. i have found that it will outlast the stock starter by years, maybe decades. i compared them, side by side, and found the 318 unit has a much larger stator area. if i recall its between 1/4-1/2" longer than the slant 6 unit. if that's what u have, it may account for ur clearance problems.

i'm sure the mini starter would solve clearance issues but i'm learey of how strong it is and how long it will last?

D~~~!
Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
The Denso built mini starter is far superior to the old style starters. It requires less current, weighs less and lasts longer. Unless the original straight-cut gear whine is necessary for you to feel like you're driving a Chrysler product the mini starter is the way to go.
Author:  zedpapa [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
as far as the difference in flanges, i had to custom fit some washers, but not all of them. trial and error. i torqued my manifold to whatever i could do with a snap-on 1/4" ratchet, 12" extension, and universal. probably somewhere between 15 and 20 lbs.

zedpapa
Author:  LUCKY13 [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: starters sizes
Quote:
my /6 wears a starter for a 318. i have found that it will outlast the stock starter by years, maybe decades. i compared them, side by side, and found the 318 unit has a much larger stator area. if i recall its between 1/4-1/2" longer than the slant 6 unit. if that's what u have, it may account for ur clearance problems.

i'm sure the mini starter would solve clearance issues but i'm learey of how strong it is and how long it will last?

D~~~!
The only problem with the mini starters is the copper contact lugs inside the solonoid wear out sometimes. These can be bought in a kit for about $12.00 at most auto stores and it comes with the new piston/plunger and the copper lugs to repair it. When these get bad the starter will just click, when it does replace them and the starter should be good for another 10 years. They are stronger than the old starters plus the lighter weight & extra clearance. I wish they had them back when I was running big block cars, header/starter clearance was a nightmare.



Jess
Author:  Kidd [ Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Thats why I love this place......I will be getting my header and intake on this weekend I hope, and was wondering about the flange differences too!!
Andrew
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