I have a 225 one barrel, and it came with a super six setup in the trunk. Do you think its worth changing to. What kind of small mods do you recommened to improve performance. Not looking for a race car just a little more ump. Also what can you do to improve the exhaust sound. I know its not a v8 put i would like to get a little bit if that sound if its possible. Any one have any suggestions? Thanks

well the super six will do you some good on 10 extra horse also allow the engine to breath and proably better gas milleage in the run too but that about what i can say to help you out since well i got the super six for my slant im rebuilding

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1972 Plymouth Duster 225 Super Six Slant

I also have a 74 Dart, a two door Swinger.

Once you have it tuned up, valve lash set hot while running to .010 and .020.

Recurve the distributor like this:
New electronic distributor re-curved with red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 distributor. It has a15R governor with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed in 3 turns. Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and 8mm Blue Summit wires. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical and 20 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 52 degree total.

Tuning: Adjustable vacuum advances can be adjusted to when the advance starts, not the amount. The part# number on the can or number on the arm indicates the total amount of advance.

Using a 3/32 allen wrench you can adjust the advance to where you can plug it in and unplug the vacuum line and see zero or little timing change. For me that is about 3 turns.

For reference, at idle with my cam I am at 18 pounds vacuum. So there is no advance from 18 pounds or less. Then you have it set right on. You don't want the vacuum advance to kick in too soon or it could over advance and surge or when the engine is too hot, causing it to ping. At cruise I run between 15 and 22 inches of vacuum. At 15 inches vacuum and 2000 rpm puts me right at 30 degrees timing, 19 inches at 2500 rpms puts me about 45 degrees. Letting off slightly say 20 inches takes it on up to 52 degrees.

Then toss the Holey 1945 away and install a 1920 and tune the carb so you can break the rear tires loose at a dead stop.

My exhaust sounds very nice, set it up like mine.
See below.

Take all the excess weight out and drop the nose. P215 60R front in the front P235 60R rear.

Run cold air grabber set up for the carb. Get a one barrel air cleaner and elephant nose and blow a 3.125 hole between the radiator and battery and buy a flat baffle trailer sewer fitting and hook it up. Makes a nice neat better than factory install.

If the law allows, get rid of all the excess pollution control rats nest and just run the PCV and gas bowl vent lines. That makes it look nice and clean, back to a basic and stable engine. Send me your email if you need pictures.

Toss the stock fan and install an electric fan.

These are very inexpensive upgrades and allow the engine to run much better with out taking the engine apart.

If you want to do that, then I have another list to consider.

I am sure you will get alot of help from the folks on this forum.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks for the replies. Yes i would like to see some pics if you have them. What type of exhaust are you running. I need to change my valve cover, so i figured i would adjust the valves then. Any tips to doing this ive never adjusted them before and dont want to make any problems.

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74 2 door dart. All stock, work in progress!

1. I sent some pictures, let me know if you need more.
2. I am running 2.25" pipe all the way back with a Thrush welded muffler.
3. To adjust them, warm up the engine real good, maybe 15 minutes or so.
Turn your idle down low as you can go. It will spray less oil that way.
Pull the valve cover and fire it back up. Do all the intakes with a flat .010 feeler guage, slide the feeler gauge in while tunning. If it slows down, loosen up the lash. You should be able to slide the gauge in and out easily. If they aren't making noise when done and are quiet, then they are too tight. I usually make a couple of passes to be sure they are all the same. Then take a flat .020 and do the exhaust side. You might want to have a few spare feeler gauges. If the valves are too tight your gauge will look like a bananna when your done.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Preparation: Go to local auto store and get a FelPro rubber Valve cover gasket...find your ratchet and 3/8" socket and feeler gauge set

1) put a peice of cardboard under the passenger side of the engine bay so the oil won't stain the garage floor... you will need a feeler gauge set, and a ratchet with a 3/8" socket and if you have a short 'wobbly' extension it will help keep things on track while working the rocker adjustment

2) chock the wheels of the car, so you can put it in neutral without the car rolling away on you, warm car up (carb should kick down to 'low' idle and the temp gauge will tell you when it's warmed up, if using stock heated intake...5 minutes...)

3) Pull and plug the small hose that goes from the carb to the distributor, if you have the style of vavle cover with the heater hoses clipped to it, remove the hoses and clip from the cover and let them hang loose (if you have a late 70's mopar, the heater hoses are routed along the passenger side fender and out of the way)

4) remove the wiring harness from the clips on the side of the vavle cover (usually the coil, alt, etc... wires)

5) using a 7/16" socket, remove the bolts in the valve cover, turn idle screw down until it's as low as it will go without dying out (about 5-600 is the limit...)

6) remove valve cover, follow ted's procedure on checking lash

7) once lashed properly, turn motor off, place in park/gear

clean up valve cover (your old gasket was a 'cork' one right...scrape that stuff out)

9) install new gasket, get tabs in the right holes...

10) reinstall cover, install bolts (do not just 'wrench' them in... it will create leaks and bend the valve cover a bit) replace all other items (heater hoses, wiring harness)

11) fire car back up and readjust idle back to normal specs (750-800 rpm per the manual...or if a 'hot rod', whatever it likes best)

12) cleanup excess oil on sides of block or fender if needed, remove cardboard and tidy up...

13) drive and see if things are a bit more 'peppy'...

Good luck,

-D.Idiot

Thanks for the help. I will try it out probably next weekend. Had to order the gasket, wont be here till monday.

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74 2 door dart. All stock, work in progress!