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Headers- whats recommended
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26833
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Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Headers- whats recommended

I am looking for header for Eileen. What type is recommended, where do I get them and will they drag the ground or not fit well?

Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:52 pm ]
Post subject: 

For which engine? the SL6 or the Hemi?

Did you decide to give your SL6 a chance?

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:25 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
For which engine? the SL6 or the Hemi?

Did you decide to give your SL6 a chance?
Eileen is the motor so yes for the slant and regards to giving the SL6 a chance, its had many. :lol:

Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:43 pm ]
Post subject: 

Bren,

Well I am glad you have some faith. It was looking pretty sad there for awhile with those overlayed Hemi shots in your engine bay.

My pick if I had your set up would be the thermal treated Hookers 3x2 from Summit.

Then 2.25" to behind the tranny to a "X" pipe for more torque, and then to Thrush/or FlowMaster 40's and 2" tail pipes.

With that combo we could see some gut wrenching torque from Eileen!

One other thing, a new carb.....something easy to tune like a Edelbrock AVS.

Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

Those Hooker's would work well, BUT may not fit with some of your mods?

The Clifford Street Rod headers work well and fit well. Not the best possible design, but they've worked well for me. Here is my recommendation:

- Cliff headers
- buy a bona fide Flowmaster or similar Y-pipe with 2.25" inputs and 3" output
- run 2.25" pipes out of the engine bay down to 1" to 4" behind the trans X-member, then into Y-pipe
- 3" from Y-pipe back to muffler in front of rear axle
- Super Turbo or similar 3" ID muffler
- 2.5" or 3" from muffler back
- optional - short glass pack or resonator near back bumper to quiet everything down.

If you want to keep your present 2.5" exhaust (not recommended based on track times), get a 2"X2.5" Y-pipe at same position and run 2" pipes from headers to Y.

Lou

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have Hookers. IIRC I didn't have to ding them. I had to notch the strut from the tranny to the block.

I have a 3 speed on the column. Lots of crap.

Clutch rod was tight.

Author:  LUCKY13 [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:16 pm ]
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I say the Hooker Supper Comps also, there size and lenth will help that engine a lot. Heck you might even find that it can be tuned after a set of hookers are on it. Also the Hookers are going to give you most torque and broadest power band, plus bring out the HP. I dare say, the right set of header will totaly change your engine. I know in other post you where somewhat against them because you wanted torque, but it is the headers that will bring this torque. It will also make the engine less likely to ping.


I am not sure what I would do about a X or Y pipe. If I did either it would probably be the X. One thing the X pipes will do is tone down the exhaust even with a high flow muffin.


I also kinda agree about the carb deal, that truck carb has some crazy stuff going on in the metering department where they designed it for fourwheeling trucks. I dont remember exactly right off hand how they changed the metering, but if I am remebering right it had something to do with the emulsion curcuits to work with lower float levels and other out of the norm calibations. It may be something that can be rectified with some work but I would have to look into it to know for sure.


Jess

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:13 am ]
Post subject: 

The truck carb has been gone long ago. I am running the Holley 570 (510cfm) street advenger vac secondary.
Lou. where do you think I'll have fitment problems with the Hookers?
I believe the Clifford INTAKE manifold has larger runner diameters. Is this true? My Offy comes pretty close to the A/C bracket/compressor, so does the Clifford INTAKE follow the same track?
What do headers cost?
What cold start drivablity problems should I expect with no heat box?
What about ground clearance on the headers? I can't be worried about every little speed bump.
When some are recommending X pipes, are you also recommending dual mufflers and tail pipes or a single exhaust exit?

PS Don't give me crap about the A/C. Its Florida and its hot. :D I also run the A/C in the winter down here in this car because of the heat that starts coming through the floor from the Dutra/cut manifolds and pipes. :shock:


http://tinyurl.com/2nruna clearance area. I can move the pipe a little.
http://tinyurl.com/3d5mdr top view

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:53 am ]
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http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dutra- ... engine.jpg

What kind are these headers?

Author:  sandy in BC [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:53 am ]
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Lou is talking about a single exhaust....and I agree....with your unlimited budget Id do exactly what Lou suggested....his info is backed by dyno tests by Cameron Tilley.

Author:  Doc [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:02 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dutra-blocks/hyper-engine.jpg

What kind are these headers?
Those are old Clifford headers for a 170
Clifford stopped making long tube headers years ago.
DD

Author:  Dart270 [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:12 am ]
Post subject: 

I am worried about hookers hitting AC, but you may be able to stare at pics and convince yourself they'll clear. Power steering too? Another possible problem, if so.

Hookers may also hang lower? I don't know this, but might be the case (was for Clifford long tubes). I hate low hanging exhaust.

Lou

Author:  emptypockett [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Headers

I got a set of the Hooker Pro Comps.They are good for power and tourque.Had some clearence issues with my booster though.As for a muffler
DYNO Max makes a muffler that works well with the 3/2 headers.It has 2 inlets and 2 outlets with a built in crossover pipe.That way you only need 1 muffler for duals and no cross overpie.They are a little big but I was ablre to fit in my F body.The headers ahng down for clearence but that's the price you have to pay.Can't tell you what the muffler sounds like yet but hopefully will in a couple of weeks. :?

Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:01 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
What do headers cost?
What cold start drivablity problems should I expect with no heat box?
What about ground clearance on the headers? I can't be worried about every little speed bump.
When some are recommending X pipes, are you also recommending dual mufflers and tail pipes or a single exhaust exit?
1. See Summit.com for price. get the thermal coated ones.
2. Since it's so hot in Florida, not much of problem like in the north were we are freezing!
3. Your car stance looks tall enough to run them. Once on the rack up in air you could bend them if need be. But the car I saw that had them looked fine. Worst case scenario you could go back to running stock size tires, P205 all around.
4. The "X" pipe provides more torque. Run duals. No short cuts this time!

After all your effort, we want to see what this engine can do :D

Author:  Bren67Cuda904 [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:56 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
1. See Summit.com for price. get the thermal coated ones.
4. No short cuts this time!
Hummm
Please stop throwing out the "one size fits all" statements. Honestly when I see your posts I pretty much just skip over them. I know your a little new to the scene but I don't need a distrubutor recurve, vac can adjusment, Eddy carb, ect ect. Almost forgot, and done just the way you've done these to your car/engine. My engine is ALOT different than most and there where NO short cuts. I did everything for a reason and cost certainly had nothing to do with it. Sometimes wrong, but I had my reasons. Also nobodies slant 6 car burns the tires all the way through an intersection "If I accidently give it to much gas". :roll: Also Summit.com (summit electric supply) doesn't sell headers. Summitracing.com does. :wink:
Cooling down a bit now.
I was going to explode.
I below critical mass now. Sorry

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