On my '75 Duster I have a manifold gasket leak. Is there a way to fid out if its an intake leak or exhaust? I need to get it inspected before I can fix it and itll fail inspection with the exhaust leak but not intake leak.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

An intake leak will cause the engine to run poorly, missing especially at idle.
You can find out which runner has an intake leak by spraying carb cleaner around each runner as it meets the engine. The idle should smooth out when you spray the leaky runner.

An exhaust leak usually shows up as a noisy putt-putt-putt under the hood.
You can find where the leak is by looking for carbon traces around the gasket. You can also often feel the hot (careful) gasses being expelled.

Either way, you're probably in for a replacement gasket (which is something I just finished on my 68 Dart). Do a search on this forum for Remflex gaskets, then order one. Also print out the article (under the articles section) on manifold installation.

Just FYI, many times your exhaust leak may be due to a cracked manifold, take a look for that possibility as well.

-Mac

Thanks ill take a look at it.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

Just a quick note.
START SPRAYING YOUR NUTS NOW. And dont wait til you are trying to do the replacement gasket. That would/could be a recipe for disaster.
My02
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Yeah thanks for the reminder I dont want to break any bolts.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941

There studs(even worse) and no you dont.
Been there done that didnt like it.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Heat them up good and hot with a torch before trying to take them off the studs.

Get a can of Kroil penetrating oil. It works miracles! It is well worth the price. Spray those studs and nuts and stove box bolts if you replace the stove box gasket. Sometimes you will get a leak under intake and need fix that as well. When putting it back together, I believe Doug makes a point in his article of using the silver luberplate too keep things from rusting in place again. I used brass nuts on the studs and stainless bolts for the stove box hoping they will not rust in place like the stock bolts do after 35 years. That way if you decide to up grade your SL6 to a Super Six or 4 barrel it won't be so hard to do the swap.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

the newschool way to check vacuum leak location is a smoke machine. it fills your intake wit smoke with engine off and youll see smoke commin right out where it leaks. nice thing to have in a shop

Somebody here suggested a method of testing for intake leaks that I thought I would try. Apply air pressure to the PCV hose and spray leak test liquid on the intake and carb. Any leaks would then bubble up. If this works it seems an especially good way to check for leaks at the throttle shaft.