I have a 79 Dodge W150 power wagon.. With the bullet proof slant six 225.

im currently running into warm idle Oil pressure issues,

When the truck Idles cold It has over 40 psi of pressure in neutral, and 20+ psi in drive at a still.

When it warms up.. it has 3-4 psi at idle, in netruel.. Less in gear (I always rev it slightly to recieve 20+psi)

i remember someone mentioning somewere that their is a stock oil pump off of another engine that will make more oil pressure..

Does anyone know what model/year this would be?

or were i could get a high volume pump..?

Any help.. Would be greatly appreciated.. because snow+blown motor in the plow truck= me shoveling.. I have a big parking lot..HELP!~! lol.

Matt~ thefetman_711@hotmail.com

Welcome on the board.

Before you swap the oil pump, service the oil pressure relief valve to make sure it's doing its job, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2. What grade (weight) of oil are you using, what brand and model of filter, and how are you obtaining these oil pressure readings?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've already stuffed a thicker Relief pressure spring, and shimmed it.

40w full syn

mechanical gauge..

Fram tough guard i do believe.

Okay...but did you clean and service the pressure relief valve?
H'mm. Strange choice. Can't think of anyone making a straight 40-weight synthetic; what brand is it?
Verified accurate?
Start using better filters; Frams are junk (amongst other things, they can restrict oil flow sufficiently to reduce oil pressure). Purolator, Wix/NAPA Gold, Motorcraft...all better choices than Fram.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sounds like the bearing clearnces are just getting to loose ( engine warn out) . If your pressure guage is aknown good guage then there is not much more you can do. A better pump would probably only hide the real problem if it did bring the oil pressure up.



There is one other thing to consider/check. If the engine has had a timing chain and gear wear out ( the old plastic teeth gears) then the plastic teeth could be in the oil pan adn gotten in the oil pickup. This will restrict the oil pump and cause it to loose pressure.


I would pull the oil pan and check the oil pickup. If it is not rstricked/stopped up then I would pull some rod & main caps and inspect the bearings. You could try a new oil pump first, but chances are if it is warn out this bad then the rest of the engine is right there with it. Also make sure the oil pickup tube does not have any cracks or leaks from holes to. The pickup getting stopped up from the plastic teeth is kinda common problem.


You might also switch from a syn oil to a standard oil and use a 20w50. If this helps it will just be covering up the real problem and you can expect it to give trouble down the road. No matter what I would pull the oil pan and make sure the pickup is working as needed, unless your guage is lying to you. In the end if you let it go to far you could destroy the crankshaft or worse. If you address the problem now you could be saving yourself some real problems.


Jess

ya.. Made a whopping 3 extra psi
Royal purple
I used two different gauges.. Both read the same
Meh.. I was given a box of fram ones cheap.. I've used other brands of filters.. No difference.

It has new main bearings, two new oil pumps.. basically the whole bottom end was re done.

This sounds like it had bearing installed without removing the engine.


OK, what was the bearing clearances?


If the main & rod clearances are good then it could be the cam bearings are to loose. Or even something like a cracked block, oil galley plug left out or fallen out.


If its just had new bearings installed from the bottom without taking the engine apart the chances are they are still to much clearance. Without knowing the full back ground this is all just guess work though.



Jess

Your use of straight 40wt is greatly accelerating engine wear at cold startup, which is probably why you've got low oil pressure at low RPMs. Once you go in and repair the damage (probably new bearings), use an appropriate grade of oil for the ambient temperature conditions — 10w30 on an engine with good, tight clearances, 15w40 on an engine with looser clearances — and a good quality filter, to avoid creating the same problem a second time.

Your shimmed pressure relief valve has bought you some "band-aid" time on the loose bearings, and a high-volume oil pump would buy you some more "band-aid" time, but sooner or later you're going to have to fix the root problem, and once you do that, a high-volume oil pump won't be necessary.

You're welcome, BTW.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Did you get a chance to read this article?
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/oil-pu ... report.htm

The direct answer to you question:
These days, all aftermarket oil pumps have thicker impellers, you can get them with 7/8 and the "HV" with the 1 inch thick impeller size.

As already noted, changing to the larger oil pump should help your hot idle, low pressure problem. The risk is overloading the cam / pump drive gear. (see the article)

In general, I find that a lot of worn engine oil pressure loss in a SL6 is from excess clearance in the cam bearings. Have those been changed?
DD