Is there anything I should be doing other than new gaskets and a paint job on my 77 while I have great access to it? The head had a slight old oil smell when I pulled the valve cover so I was wondering about an interior cleaning, but originally was just going to run some detergant oil for the intial restart. Thing ran great and didn't burn a drop of oil but definitely leaked a bunch from the usual suspect areas.

Forgot to mention I'm putting on A front Dutra and modified rear manifold. New studs?

After swapping and redoing several slants, I suggest if you have it out now would be a good time to put in a new rear main seal, groove your head as DD says to let oil flow out easier when you later adjust valves, and put the oil pan back on. It can be a real pain doing any of these from underneath..very doable, just harder than if you have engine hanging up. Particularly since may have been 30+ years since your rear main seal was in. Come to think of it, now would be a good time to put in a front crankshaft seal in you timing chain cover and also look for chain slack. Look at the little hose segment between head and block to see if it is dried out or has an aneurysm. But studs....nahh, they don't "go bad" sitting there.

rock
'64d100

Any things to watch out for while doing the crank seals? On the oil passages, how do you keep debris (metal shavings) from falling down them?

bbbbb,

I reread and see you have it out but not head off, so probably best not to do the oil deal unless you are used to working on such stuff...I would use good rags to localize mess while doing the work, and a magnet afterward to clean up, but you will get along fine with out doing this.

As to seals, DON"T force anything. In particular you don't want to lever around on the timing chain cover to remove the seal. You can just knock it out with a screwdriver blade and a small hammer. I press mine in with a shop press because I have one, but you can replace the seal using a block of wood or a seal driver to put it in. I always put some 3M window gasket sealer ( the baby crap yellow sticky stuff in a tube) on those seals.

For the rear main you will find it amazingly easy to replace. I use a pencil size stick to push with so as not to scratch anything. Search on the forum for the procedure DD has written up. Be very careful when reinstalling the aluminum block that bolts over the cranshaft end so as not to strip the threads. If you don't have a torque wrench to do this you might think about getting one. I can't imagine doing much work without using one any more.

rock
'64d100

Thanks rock.

I was thinking that I could do it with the head still on and with the oil pan off pour lots of Dan's engine cleaning receipe down from the head. Use a magnet and some kind of filter so that I can reuse the mixture in his procedure.

I've changed heads before and front cranks seals, but never a rear with an engine assembled.

How's your engine bay? Some serious cleaning now would pay off later! Clean up the wiring, paint if necessary.
Need new brake or transmission cooling lines? Copy the old ones and have them ready.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Oh yeah, the engine bay is getting a complete makeover.

This is a "wrecks to not so much riches" type build.

Been collecting parts for years. Body from a junkyard (was going to be crushed), engine from a 77 Aspen that I've already sold enough out of to make money (4speed tranny too), Disc setup same way out of a 73 Duster.

Finally got my carport built to build the thing. This summer it comes together.

The front seal on the transmistion ( torque convertor seal) and the torque convertor snout would be a good thing to inspect ( and replace the seal).


I would not worry with grinding oil passages, to much chance of metal sticking to some gunky oil down in the motor and then later coming loose and going through your engine. There is not that much oil going anywhere when you ajust valves anyway if things are clean.


I dont remember what Dan was using for cleaning, but with the oil pan, and valve cover off using something to clean it with would be a good idea. Keroseen works really well with a parts brush. Using water to rinse does not hurt a thing as long as you blow dry real good and dont let it set a long time after the work ( dont want things to start rusting).


After doing anyting like this I would start the engine up with a cheap oil and filter and after letting it run long enough to get the oil hot drain it and put good oil and new filter in. This will ensure you kinda flush any left over particales,water,cleaner that was left.

Also flushing the water jackets out real good would be a good thing.


Freeze plug inspection. Take something and try to poke through them
( like a philips screw driver). If you find weak ones then replace them all.


Broken bolts/studs in the head for the intake/exhaust manny. Now would be a great timing to remove the intake & exhaust manny and fix those broken bolts .



Jess