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| interesting oil filter info https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27125 |
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| Author: | Red [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | interesting oil filter info |
Look under "Avocations" sub heading: http://www.systems-engineering-associates.com/papers |
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| Author: | Red [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Lots more: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:41 am ] |
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Even more (specific to the filter type we use on our slant-6s) |
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| Author: | Jopapa [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'll stick to the K&N 3001 filter. It's the same one (same part even) that I use on my Toyota and the welded on nut makes it handy as I'll get out when changing my oil. Just to share, one trick I do to save myself an oily mess when pulling the filter is to take a sharp punch and put a hole in the top of the filter, tapping the punch about 2" into the filter with a hammer (to make sure the anti-drainback valve is punctured) and letting the oil drain out of the filter for about 15-20 minutes while I wait for the pan to drain. Since the filter has an integrated anti-drainback valve, I removed the post and valve from my oil pump, so all that's there is the union for the filter. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I'll stick to the K&N 3001 filter. It's the same one (same part even) that I use on my Toyota and the welded on nut makes it handy as I'll get out when changing my oil.
There are some interesting notes on that filter in the page I linked (in a nutshell, as it were: you're buying an expensive repainted Purolator PureOne with a nut welded on — good filter, but overpriced).Quote: Since the filter has an integrated anti-drainback valve, I removed the post and valve from my oil pump, so all that's there is the union for the filter.
The filter's antidrainback valve and the oil pump's standpipe and check valve do not do the same job — the filter's valve prevents the oil draining "backwards" through the pump and oil pickup tube into the pan, while the standpipe and/or check valve prevent the oil draining "forwards" through the oil gallery and eventually into the pan. Though with an engine and oil pump in good condition and a good-quality filter, you may not have a significant enough forward-drain issue to require a check valve. More discussion here, here, here, here, and here (filter w/built-in standpipe).
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| Author: | Jopapa [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: There are some interesting notes on that filter in the page I linked (in a nutshell, as it were: you're buying an expensive repainted Purolator PureOne with a nut welded on — good filter, but overpriced).
Yeah I saw that. Thing is, I rarely ever see Purolator filters where I live. I see K&N stuff everywhere thanks to the ricer crowd's mentality of "K&N INTAKE AND AIR FILTERS ARE THE BESTEST". I won't mess with K&N's air filters (had one in my Toyota, didn't do anything but make my wallet lighter) or intakes, but I definitely like their oil filters.
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | "Mighty" brand oil filter |
Dan, I didn't see the "Mighty" brand listed. That is filter that collapsed after 50 miles of driving and wiped out my engine two years ago. When "Mighty" checked the filter they said it took 70 lbs. pressure before the bypass valve opened. No contaminants from the engine were found in the oil test. It was a new oil change with a new filter. Needless to say, I hand them a WIX filter and the Mobil 1 oil. I wonder who makes them and how they compare? Russ's email no longer works, I tried sending him an email. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:46 am ] |
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Casting around the net, it looks like Mighty filters are made by Champion Labs. I'm guessing it's probably the cheaper "E-core" design discussed at length in Russ' report. His e-mail may or may not work, but in several prominent places near his e-mail address on his site, he asks/tells/begs/pleads/orders readers not to send him "What about xxxx brand of filter I didn't see on your page, are those any good/who makes them/what can you tell me about them/will you test them?" types of questions. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mighty used to be made by Purolater. That was, maybe 10 years ago. I had to return a Mighty filter which had a hole rusted thru the shell to Purolater. |
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 3:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: "K&N INTAKE AND AIR FILTERS ARE THE BESTEST".
Although they work good I heard they have very little filtration and let a lot of dirt and other things in your engine.
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| Author: | 65Dodge100 [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What can someone do if their slant uses an oil filter cartridge instead of a spin on? Are any cartridge filters better or worse than others or do I need to change it to a spin on filter? Danny |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I was going to bring up the replaceable-cartridge type filter. I have one of these kicking around somewhere, haven't seen it in years. If I were you, I'd keep it! The replaceable elements are still very easy to get (I'd use a WIX/NAPA Gold). |
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| Author: | tophat [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I like the NAPA 1806 with the built in stand pipe. I just started using it recently and found that my worn out engine builds oil pressure twice as fast on start up. TopHat |
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| Author: | Jopapa [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: "K&N INTAKE AND AIR FILTERS ARE THE BESTEST".
Although they work good I heard they have very little filtration and let a lot of dirt and other things in your engine. |
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