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Little Heat from the Heater
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27129		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:46 am ]
Post subject:  Little Heat from the Heater
(This post was "split" from a different thread)

Doc,

Did you find any particular defect that made the stock temp gauge read low? I installed a new stock sender during my engine rebuild and it reads low by about 20 degrees, like the original sender.

To verify what is really happening, I used the cooking thermometer and found I am dead on 180 degrees. I tried and hand held inferred thermal tester, same temp. I purchased a Mr. Gasket 16 pound radiator cap with the temp gauge in the top. I see 180 max with a 195 degree "Stant" Super Stat. I have gone through 3 or 4 of those stats now.

My car's heater is still luke warm inside the car, even with a new heater core and hoses. It has been below freezing up here! I am thinking of getting rid of the stock MOPAR clutch fan which is two years old now (from Summit Racing) and go with a 16" electric fan with a 210 degree switch in the radiator to get some heat inside. My 440 cars pump out the heat and they have 180 stats.

When its real cold in the winter mileage drops to 22 mpg, summer time 24 plus mpg. That is based on a minimum of 120 miles a day city, back roads and freeway.By the way card board half way up the radiator helps a little but not allot. About 10 degrees more heat.
Is the bung that you made for the thermostat housing staying put from all the wrenching? I thought I would remove one of the brass plugs in the radiator tank to install the new 210 degree switch. The other option I was considering is spending a little more on a unit that is adjustable from 150 to 210.
Any thought or suggestions to my plan? :?: :idea: :?:
Author:  Doc [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Did you find any particular defect that made the stock gauge read low?
All I did was grab my can-full of temp senders and started swapping them into the head, I was surprized to see that much difference between 3 of them. As you know, the factory temp sending unit is a sealed brass fitting unit that controls resistance to ground, there is really not much to "see" with one of these.
Quote:
Is the bung that you made in thermostat housing staying put from all the wrenching?
I am swapping the factory gauge's sender in the head, I am not working with (or touching) that after market temp gauge's sender. That one is installed and holding water so it is OK for now. Time will tell if the heat takes it's toll on the epoxy I used to install the bung in the die cast cover.

As for your luke warm heater, I can't help but think that there is something wrong with your heater core or the air flow through it.
The heaters in all my A-Body cars blow pretty hot when I have 180 degree coolent temp.
DD
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
Doc,

I have put in a brand new Modine radiator and two new heater cores and a new fan motor, and all new hoses just to be sure. Water is crystal clear with the yellow tint of the anti-freeze. No blockages found.
We went out tonight, about 10 miles. Radiator temp hit 180, but luke warm in the car.
Author:  dakight [ Sat Feb 09, 2008 4:08 am ]
Post subject: 
You need to start looking someplace other than the coolant temp for your problem. If you're getting 180* then your coolant is hot enough to produce more than adequate heat in the car. Check your heater hoses, one should be hot and the other lukewarm. If both are cold or just warm then you have a coolant flow problem. Most likely you have an air handling problem and air is not getting pulled through the heater core.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:51 am ]
Post subject: 
I pulled the heater box again and it is like a whirl wind. The new fan motor pulls hard. Maybe too hard? Both hoses are hot! The heater core is blazing hot! Top and bottom. I think it is just too cold out.
I jump in and go, with little warm up time. Even our 440's have been taking longer to warm up.

Thanks for the advice. I am thinking of going with a 210 switch on the electric fan just to get a little more intense heat.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
Your air mixing door must be futzed.

A body heaters are excellent.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Heater door
Sandy,

It will close all the way, but I run the inner heater box door wide open. I plugged the out side intake so I am only pulling cabin air leaving the right passenger vent box door open to recirculate warm air so it will warm up quicker. It also keeps the diesel fumes out of the car which I am highly allergic to. Too many years as a diesel mechanic.....and too many hours on the road in traffic each day behind smelly buses and trucks.

I could leave the inner door out if you think it would help.
Author:  Doc [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Take a close look to see if air can leak around the heater core.
The factory used a good amount of "sealing dope" (putty) to seal-up any gaps that will allow cooler air to by-pass the heater core.

Also be sure there is positive pressure behind the heater core, the cool air may-be getting out of the box at some other place which will reduce the amount of flow thru the hot core.
DD
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
That must be it! leaking around the core. I hadn't thought of that.
I have had 3 heater cores in there now and the sealing could be less than ideal.

What kind of putty would you suggest I use? Where can I purchase it?

Thanks Doc!
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