Good idea
Just add a distributor recurve to the list.
Do you know how many miles are on the engine?
How good is your timing chain?
Does the timing jump around under the timing light or is it stable?
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| Car upgrades? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27150 |
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Car upgrades? |
Its for my 1975 Duster with a 225. This is what I have planned so far: HEI Upgrade EGR Bypass OSAC Bypass (Done) Valve Adjustment Carb Rebuild Manifold Gasket Replacement Is there anything else I should have on this list? |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:57 pm ] |
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Distributor recurve and 2.25" exhaust all the way back with a free flowing muffler. These two mods help with bottom end response and upper midrange power. I kept avoiding Doc's advice, but now realize what he was stressing. There is a quite a performance improvement both in HP and mileage. |
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I foregot. I got the new exhaust but its only 2", but I am going to get 2 1/4" exhaust on around the first six feet. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Good idea Just add a distributor recurve to the list. Do you know how many miles are on the engine? How good is your timing chain? Does the timing jump around under the timing light or is it stable? |
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:14 pm ] |
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The car has 128000 miles on it. Im not sure if the engine was ever rebuilt. I havent really checked the timing yet because of the carb problem it doesnt run very well , but after I rebuild it I am going to check the timing for sure. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would add the fuel line mod and the installation of one of the Electric choke kit to the list. |
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What is the advantage of an electric choke over manual? |
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| Author: | 75plyduster [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
[quote="Aggressive Ted"]Just add a distributor recurve to the list.[/quote Im not really familiar with distributors. What will I need to get to do it? Where can I get those? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:45 pm ] |
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Quote: What is the advantage of an electric choke over manual?
Factory equipment is an "electric assist" automatic choke that not only doesn't work very well, but is also nonadjustable. The electric choke kit works well and is fully adjustable, so you can dial in those "stomp the gas, turn the key, drive off" cold-morning starts.
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:05 pm ] |
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The best thing to do is read up on the subject. Doc has a post with a great manual on how to do it. Do a search on Distributor Recurve and look for Docs name. There are alot of other good posts on the subject as well. The sad thing about it is that MOPAR quit selling the recurve kit. So it is not quite as simple to do as it once was. There are all types of recurves: for racing only, for street/strip cars and for ultimate mileage. So when you read the posts keep these three catagories in your head and what you read will start to make sense. I can share with you what I did from the mileage perspective. I really lucked out, only having to pull my distributor (3) times before I got it spot on. After putting a plan together, I started collecting old big block and slant six distributors to get the parts. I purchased a new electronic distributor and re-curved it with a red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 big block distributor. Using a 15R governor (long slots) with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed in 3 turns. Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and 8mm Blue Summit wires. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical for 32 degrees plus another 20 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 52 degree total. Tuning: Adjustable vacuum advances can be adjusted to when the advance starts, not the amount. The part# number on the arm indicates the total amount of advance. Multiply the number by 2. Using a 3/32 allen wrench you can adjust the advance to where you can plug it in and unplug the vacuum line and see zero or little timing change. For me that is about 3 turns. For reference, at idle with my cam I am at 18 inches of vacuum. So there is no advance from 18 inches or less. Then you have it set right on. You don't want the vacuum advance to kick in too soon or it could over advance and surge or when the engine is too hot, causing it to ping. At cruise I run between 15 and 22 inches of vacuum. At 15 inches vacuum and 2000 rpm puts me right at 30 degrees timing and 50 mph, 19 inches at 2500 rpms puts me about 45 degrees. Letting off slightly say 20 inches takes it on up to 52 degrees pretty quick. The throttle response off idle is very quick and crisp and at 50 mph it feels very punchy. Before the recurve it was very sluggish and not very responsive. You pushed down on the gas hoping something would happen. Pulling out in traffic was not fun or passing. With the recurve it made the engine rebuild come to life. To get the greatest benefit be sure your timing chain is in good shape and not all stretched out. This is the tip of the iceberg. Read as much as you can first and put a plan together of how you want the engine to behave.  Hope this helps a little.If you can't find Doc's distributor recurve document, send me your email and I will send you a copy and some other good info with pictures Doc sent me. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
SlantSix Dan has some other good mods besides the fuel line mod, HEI mod and electric choke. Check out his NGK Spark plug upgrade, Blue Streak cap and rotor (Echlin MO-3000) and Magnecor wires. |
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