been slowly making my dd 72valiant handle lil better. just did front disc conversion from doner 73 dart. also went wit the beef torsionbars, front sway bar, kyb's. ive heard u can use the tierods and sleeves from the later big bodies. wut about pitman and idler? it has the 225 kmember

no-- the 73 & up k- member is different than the 72 & prior---- since you have both available-- look closely at the 73-- it runs the sway bar through the middle--(lca tabs are in the middle) I also think the idler/pitman arms are different. Heck you could just swap the whole "k" assembly from 1 car -to the next-- then you would have the newer motor mounts.
As for tie rods go to partsamerica website-- look up the tie rods for a 72 & then a 73 see if they are the same?

That, you can do!

Ancient A-body tie rod vs. new C-body parts:

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

well this dart has the 318 vs the valiant wit the slant and i want the val to keep the slant.... sigh, but tierods would be nice

Can you give an example of a good year and model to tell the slack jawed counter person to look up for the beefier tie rod setup. That will fit into a stock 67 /6 A-body? Slantvaliant? Thanks.

They should be the same, but the pitman and idler arm will be different between 1972 and 73+, I think...

For the 11/16" 'C' body tie rods, I just tell them I have a 1978 Fury 400-2v, or a 1975 Chrysler Imperial 440-4v, tie rods and ends...

The 1973-1976 torsion bars for the 225/318 cars are slightly better than the 1967-1972 slant six bars (the 1973-76 are equivalent to the 1967-72 273/318 bars...)

-D.Idiot

I'm glad I read this post! I never knew that you can use the 11/16" tie rods and sleaves. I'm in the process of doing a disk brake swap on my 67 Dart as well. The Parts America website lists the 11/16" parts for a 75 Imperial. The site only lists the 9/16" size for a 78 Fury, The same size used on the 72 and 73 Darts.

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Yup. in '78 a Fury is "only" a B body not available as a "C" body any more, so it has the same sized shank on the tie rod ends as you have now. Even the Moog catalog shows a footnote relating to a swap to 11/16 dia. threaded shanks BUT you gotta change it all.... inner, outer, and sleeve, to do it. I do remember alot of GMs (especially the Astro vans S 10s and Caprices) where, even as tight as the U clamp could possibly be tightened, the sleeve and the tie rod would slide within each other like a "file" on the threads of the sleeve; the bigger diameter threads will give a deeper thread root to help prevent this. not as many Mopars but thats because by then there were no RWD Mopar cars around here to speak of, by then most were the wrong wheel drive variety with rack&pinion steering. Not saying anything good/bad about that sort of steering but the problem then went to leaks and more worn out inners than with conventional steering.

Thanks Don,

I plain had a brainfart that the plain Fury ended it's C-body existence in 1975, and the Gran Fury in 1977...

Somewhere I got confusticated since I look in junkyards for the late 70's Fury/Cordoba/Charger for the cop car sized calipers and claws...



-D.Idiot

I used a Moog ES355S sleeve, and ES355R and ES355L tie rod ends (IIRC). I've seen references to using the ES352R, instead. Mine came from Rock Auto (www.rockauto.com), which now lists Spicer #'s, and I don't remember which C-body I used for a reference. I just poked around until I found one with the numbers I wanted.

For a really nice sleeve, look at THESE.

Sorry for the delay in responding. I've been in the field this week.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Tell em that you got a'73- '74 Fury or Monaco.